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On the face of it (from what you say) you could place the UFH on a fused spur connected to the ring-final-circuit. If it were me then I would run a new radial circuit in 2.5mm with appropriate MCB based upon the actual load (As SECURESPARK said, are you sure the UFH is 2.2KW?) if so then a...

I don't disagree with that. I have seen the work of one particular registered electrician who I would not trust to wire a 13amp plug. But as a way of finding out who is registered (for part P work) and who is not then is this a difinitive list? It looks to me as though it is yet it is not...

dingbat, you are right. I did (unintentionally) understate the significance of part P. I just wish that the media would use the term Domestic Installer and refer people to www.http://www.competentperson.co.uk instead of telling them to find a "part P qualified electrician" I do have one...

Thats sounds like a reasonable solution to me with much better odds of a pass since an experienced electrician provided guidance. I don't blame the customer for not wanting to pay even more money to the LABC. Sadly not everyone consults an experienced electrician and then they end up with...

Anyone who thinks they are competent can rewire their own home provided they notify LABC first, fill out an installation certificate then have the work inspected (paying the LABC fee of course) However, it is unlikely that a DIYer will know the regs well enough and will probably not have an...

As you suggest, the dimmer and possibly the fan electronics (if it has electronics) will be damaged sooner or later. I can only offer three suggestions: 1) change the dimmer for a switch. 2) use a contactor with a coil designed to operate at between 50 - 230 volts (I have used such...

Most likely a 3amp but best that you look at the boiler manual for the info. If you don't have the manual then a quick call to the manufacturer should yield the answer. A correctly rated fuse is a balance between protecting all circuits downstream of the fuse and not blowing under normal...

OwainDIYer, I am beginning to think that we will need an industrial scale wiring centre. I have already installed Futronix rack mounted lighting into the place and have a large wiring centre for links to allow escape/exit rout lights activation on a fire/smoke alarm and links for other automated...

Taylortwocities, thank you very much for your reply and for restoring my faith in this forum. I need to look the link, digest a few things and get back to you tomorrow. Thanks again, much appreciated.

I will remember you as unhelpful. I have had to work on complex industrial systems control systems alone in a factory in Japan. Systems with which I was not 100% familiar and worked with various helpful people via telephone call which resulted in a fully functional system. Happy to say no...

holmslaw, I have 32 years electrical/electronics experience though obviously not with UFH systems. I am more than capable of taking on this additional work, I will pick it up very quickly and I am also happy and eager to do so. I was truly anticipating helpful feedback and I must say that...

Hi all, I am currently re-wiring a large 6 bed manor house as part of an overall refurb. The plumber landed me with a bombshell today when he told me that he knows nothing about the electrics for the existing boiler or the new UFH system.. So yours truly has an extra job. Only just...

OK, If you have a multimeter do the following (with power off at consumer unit) -With multimeter on resistance, clip probes across yellow and blue. -Have someone flick the light switch on and off. -Does the multimeter show the switch open and closed (high then low resistance) ? If yes...

I'd also bet that if you replaced just one of the lamps with a halogen or incandescent, the ticking would stop on the rest of the lamps controlled by the same switch. Yep, that would place a reasonably low impedance across line and neutral essentially grounding the coupled noise (grounding...

apologies. I missed your original comment : "were changed from normal incandescent ceiling roses into low energy fittings that only take fluorescent 'L1' bulbs" In this case Reggie Perrin may be onto something.

I don't know the details of the lamps themselves. Do they have any electronics in them? If no electronics then I suspect they have filaments that are essentially "tuned" to either transient noise or harmonics that are unintentionally modulated on the mains wiring from external sources...

Additional question: Do the lamps tick when you turn off the consumer unit main switch?

Just to clarify: 1) The lamps tick when they are connected to the main lighting fitting when power is turned off at the light switch? 2) When you remove a lamp from the fitting in the off state, it continues to tick for about 5 seconds then stops? 3) You measured (with a multimeter)...

No worries. It appears that the red and yellow may be switch wires. It seems you have a mix of old and new colour codes which in itself is not a problem but this particular mix is a little unusual. So do you have the following house wiring: RED YELLOW BROWN BLUE GREEN/YELLOW...