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Saw files can be had from various places. The brands I use are Oberg (also sold as Bahco or Sandvik) and Nicholson, mainly because I can normally get one or the other from my local ironmonger), although I've had Simmonds files in the past. For Nicholson you might like to try Axminster Power...

That is of course perfectly correct - I certainly recall taps being mounted on a tiled splashback in the wall. I also recall my mother scrubbing the wooden (sycamore) drainers and the indtructions never to leave damp cloths, draining dishes, bars of soap, etc. on the worktop - always dried up...

Your worktop will still have the backing on it. If you use PVA make sure it is D3 (exterior grade) as kitchens are damp places and D2 (interior grade) can redisolve over time. Personally I don't like the tactile "sensation" of silicone. If you insist on sealin the underside why not paint it with...

I actually know a guy who reshapens Stanley knife blades, although to be fair he does it to get special shapes, like one side only bevels, etc Scrit

Bear in mind that I can't see the top or it's location, but that worktop looks awfully like the oil has been lost and the mould is in unprotected wood, possibly as a result of standing water, which may well be water which has pooled after condensing on the tiled flat area behind the worktop...

Waste of time trying to sharpen them. Why not just but a new wheel - they're not that expensive, you know. Or do you also resharpen Stanley knife blades? Scrit

I could think of a more constructive way to completely waste my time :roll: Just........

There should be no need to seal it. The underside of any reasonable worktop has an applied material which should be sufficient for the task. It's the rear edges where the worktop has been scribed to the wall which need the protection of silicon. The only time you need to add any protection to...

My Workmate gets dragged around and generally treated pretty badly. For that reason I'd probably go for a birch plywood top rather than hardwood. If nothing else it will probably be more stable than solid wood, not to mention stronger. If you must go for hardwood I'd suggest the same sort of...

Even if they are simple shaker-style doors sanding down and refinishing is going to be a huge amount of effort as much of it will need to be done by hand. If they have more complex shapes, like cathedral arches or incorporate fancy mouldings then the amount of work will be much, much more. Any...

Unfortunately if they're factory-made doors they're likely to be spray lacquered with something like an acid catalysed lacquer which is impossible to repair in situ. It is, however, possible to clean the doors by removing them from the cabinets, taking off the handles and hinges then simply...

Hi Griffen You don't say if the worktop has been finished in oil or some form of lacquer/varnish, nor whether the mould is forming on the surface is inside the timber (or for that matter beneath any finish). Could you please supply this information as you've given insufficient info to make a...

Likewase - where are you? I'm in the north and have a half dozen suppliers within 60 miles, but they're noy much use to you if you're in Devon Scrit

Cough Cough! Yes! Try one of the Armeg jobbies - much cleaner and faster, but does require rotation stop on the drill. Scrit

Is this by any chance an oak worktop? Scrit

Yes, they look like sh*t Scrit

Piffle! Once a tree has been cut down the sap which keeps it growing stops flowing. The timber is then kilned and drying the wood to that extent kills it. Dead. So it can't grow any more. Yes and no. Sapele is much softer and has rowed grain which can lead to startling visual effects. Iroko is...

Any deWalt dealer. Also on eBay. They will, however, only fit bayonet shank machines and not all of them, so check first. The alternative is the tool some of us use for cutting out, the Fein Multimaster, especiually with the eCut blades. A bit pricey for a one-off, however Scrit

In these northern latitudes having a glazed roof section like that can and does make a huge difference to how light (or gloomy) a room is Scrit

Like you, you mean? PS Don't mention the Legacy :wink: Scrit