Search results

They were a set of four I got to keep in the kitchen drawer. I reckon that the one which broke had been over-hardened or stressed as the arms just snapped off clean doing a cut. It was the side cutters not the radio pliers which went, BTW. The other three have been fine, though Scrit

Travis Perkins have a number of sites in the UK which manufacture a range of mouldings one of which may suit your needs Scrit

I have a set of pliers from LIDL which did! I must be turning into Dr. No.......

That seems extremely expensive, even allowing for the knife grinding. An alternative is to see if any of the local joiners has profile knives already ground to the pattern you require - I have about a dozensets for stuff commonly used in my local area so it's always worth asking about. Scrit

The only time I'd make up then screw-on is when the lengths are fairly small and manageable (or fiddly), such as the two mitres at the front of a breakfront dresser or the top three sides of a full-height cabinet (fridge, oven, etc) in the middle/end of a run where it's going to be awkward to...

Do you have a brand name or maker? Scrit

When you say "foil" and "thin artificial veneer" do you mean a decorative laminate, such as Formica with a pre-glued back? Or something else? Most adghesives used for pre-glued materials are what are called PSA or pressure-sensitive adhesive. These tend not to be very good on curved surfaces. So...

Don't boating types call that caulking? Anyone for oakum? Scrit

Talk about coming back to haunt me? :wink: I don't know of a suitable colour in the usual Colorbond range, but an alternative is to use a runny good-quality black silicone sealant such as that manufactured by Evostik. If the joint is cut correctly the line should be almost invisible when it's...

Not so sure I'd want to cut MFC on a table saw which had been cutting tiles - strikes me that you'd never get the thing cleane enough to avoid scratching and that any wood dust would clog-up the extraction system...... Just another problem to solve, but then with basic tile saws running so...

As BA was trying to tell you - circular saws run at much, much higher speed than tile cutters - a typical 8in table saw spins the blade at around 4,500 to 5,000 rpm whereas a tile cutter runs at a few hundred rpm. The abrasive dust produced by tile cutters is normally washed out by running them...

Seal first and flat back then undercoat/prime (preferably sprayed). If you are using a water-based sealant, such as Rustins (and BTW most paint companies such as Johnstone and ICI Dulux supply MDF sealants as well) then I'd seriously suggest two coats for the surface with at least 3 coats for...

Try APTC or Rutlands, who do these: amongst others (they also do the angle drilling jigs) Scrit

I'd say you need a bit more than that......... Firstly PU has a tendency to expand unless it's properly cramped. It's also expensive, but if that's what you've got just be careful to wear gloves and don't get it on your hands as your skin will go black.... Personally I'd use a good exterior...

Try this or if you want to spend some dosh, this: Scrit

Ends - mortise and tenon. Side to ends - mortise and tenon or something like these bed bolts: Scrit

In that case I have to say that every power tool I possess which has dust bags has a different system, size of hose connection, etc. Standards? What standards? Scrit

Why not attach the vacuum cleaner - it will work better in any case Scrit

You probably don't want nut covers, more likely you are thinking about domed nuts If you want a completely flush way of doing this then I'd suggest Scan dowel fixings which are completely flush, but do require planning in the design Rubber nut covers - S&M :shock: The mind boggles Scrit

Rightly or wrongly a lot of manufacturers use the term opaque to indicate frosted, acid-etched or sand-blasted regardless of the light transmission properties,. Google "opaque glass" and see what I mean Scrit