Search results

A strong, warm/hot solution of biological washing powder will generally remove the odour and most of the materials, however it cannot be guaranteed to remove the colour of the staining which may require after treatment with a peroxide-based (so-called "oxygen") cleaner. Several treatments with...

Believe it or not plasterboard (gypsum) is an insulator, although it's not very good in damp environments. Will the interior be damp? Another easily available insulator is Rockwool, although it will need to be contained behind a membrane/wall layer of some description. If you think about it...

These worktops are a low-cost solid surface worktop, albeit with a very thin top surface. In many ways they are handled in a similar manner to ordinary laminate worktops, although the edge trimming/scribing, etc need to be done with a router rather than a jig saw. Joints are cut using a laminate...

Might I enquire why it is that you have the screws, but not the covers? Surely they'd be supplied together...... I've had a look through some of my trade catalogues and most Confirmat-type screw coverings appear to be either 10mm, 12/12.5mm (for Pozidriv #3) or 13mm (for hex head SW4) - those...

Jason That has a bit of an "Albertian" ring about it. Do tell more....... Scrit

Yes, but only if doing so isn't going to foul any service pipes (particularly waste pipes) - they're the reason most lower cabs have a 50mm service space at the back (except for IKEA cabs which are a total PITA as they have NO service space). If that side of the kitchen has waste pipes and you...

Many, many, many times :wink:

Actually, I very much doubt that. A "jumbo" will typically cost less than the price of a filler panel (circa £50 to £75 against up to £100 for a filler), despite being many times the surface area of a filler panel. Merchant cutting services are typically from £0.50 to £2.00 per cut round here...

Find a board supplier such as Silverman's and request a high-gloss MF-MDF (melamine faced MDF) board and matching edge banding. Several manufacturers do a white high gloss MF-MDF in 18mm thickness (e.g. Finsa, Egger, etc), although only Polyrey seem to do other colours. The main problem is that...

Say politely, "Thanks, but no thanks". The job needs a "mighty" 1750watt 1/2in machine........ Accept no paltry substitute Yes. There probably isn't a square wall in any kitchen in the UK....... I'd cant the jig manually to cover the difference in angle, cutting the female joint first. This...

Circular saw, fine tooth saw blade. work from front to rear - BUT turn the worktop over so that you are cutting from the underside. Jigsaws work, but in inexperienced hands can produce somewhat wavy lkines (especially with manky DIY jig saws) Scrit

Those "huge screw thingies" are probably Confirmat screws. As ever Woodfit do the covers for them (BA121) Scrit

Spade biy with spade bit extensions (see bottom of page) are probably the cheapest way to drill the hole for a one off job. My 300mm extension cost the princely sum of £2.99 off the local market Scrit

I tried carrying a second router but got hacked off by the extra lugging about so that ended up living in the van as a spare :roll: I eventually switched over to Wealden Versofix disposable tip cutters a while back - only 'problem' is the initial £40 hit for a cutter (K69420) and an extra £91...

Thanks for the plug, PJH! :lol: The only thing I can add to that detailed explanation is that the cutter must be brand new as you'll only get 2 (or at most 3) joints/ends out of a cutter and that the better quality cutters (e.g. Trend, Wealden, Titman, Freud, etc) will last longer before they...

What the h*ck are you building? Noah's Ark? :wink:

OK, so I'm a tool snob - but in the same way a professional sportsman will normally buy the best darts/racket/clubs/cues - because they perform better and last longer (both important when you are dependent on getting the maximum reliable working life out of anything). I do have some cheapo tools...

One point to bear in mind is that flat bits can always be reground to drill off size holes (after all, thy're cheap enough) or even oddball stepped holes, etc. Another is that they won't stay sharp for long...... Scrit

Basically, yes. You've said it yourself - making a perfectly straight cut with a jigsaw takes a decent jigsaw and some practice - making a straight cut with a circular saw requires a decent blade, a batten and two clamps with the quality of the saw and even the operator being less...

Translation: You can easily edge-mould timber using a router mat ("sticky" rubber mat on which the workpiece is positioned - it's anti-slip properties act in a similar way tpo clamping the work down) using bearing guided cutters Translation: Edge moulding (e.g. grooving, etc) can be achieved...