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Advice? Read the manual and practice on a scrap bit first. Don't get pal;med off with a 1400watt router - you need 1700 watts or more (e.g. deWalt DW625, Makita 3612, etc) and use a fresh cutter for eavery second joint/end Scrit

Would you be surprised if I told you it was the same technology they've used since the 1950s until the present? You're right - it's printed paper encapsulated within a plastic film. The problem is that the MDF is like blotting paper. If it is sealed, painted then sanded smooth (probably 4 to 5...

I'm another who use a circular saw cutting front to rear from the underside. In my experience jigsaws, even industrial ones, still wander too much (at least my Metabo and the previous deWalt do/did - when I'm forced to use someone else's DIY model it gives me the shudders), so for straight cuts...

Deluks is absolutely right. Once a composite worktop is blown then it cannot be repaired. It simply won't work! Chipboard is made using presses capable of compressing a 10ft high "bale" of timber fibre and resin down to 40mm - with the best will in the world there isn't a hand clamp out there...

I agree with jason, quality costs. The Lamello is an excellent machine, but I "get by" with a Mafell LNF19 (now replaced by the LNF20) which is almost as well built as the Lamello (but at about £200 discounted). I, too, get through a lot of biscuits, but unless you are making a lot of furniture...

A flip-over saw like the deWalt DW742 - these will serve as a compound mitre saw and as a table saw which makes them excellent for site work and at a push they're OK for kitchen fitting. B.... useless for cutting sheet stock, though....... Scrit

As BA says - the safest place to use a dado head (or in English a trenching head) is on a radial arm saw. If you want to groove timber, such as for kerfing it, a portable circular saw is a better and safer option Scrit

Cut from the back, i.e. the "wrong" side to get the downcut you require - oh, and use a fine tooth blade, not the basty 6-tooth ripping horror your saw came with Scrit

Grand if it's a new build, less wonderful if it's a 250 year old building (with 240 years worth of bodgework) and has a touch of subsidence......

The standard worktop jigs are normally used because they save material over using a conventional mitre joint. Both DTS and Makita make worktop jigs which will allow joints to be made which are +/-3 degrees, however yours are so extreme that I can't think of a jig which would accommodate them. So...

An alternative might well be an SDS drill with rotation stop and a bit sush as the Armeg chasers. I use three different chasers (55mm, 30mm and 20mm skirtings) on a 3kg rotation stop hammer and they generate less dust than a chaser (chasers require a fine dust industrial vacuum cleaner) and...

I'm not sure aboput applying heat simply because I'd be concerned about causing the wax to sink even further into the material. Another possibility might be to use gentle heat and turpentine as turps is used to dissolve waxes to make traditional wax polishes, however it does niff a bit, it...

Larch (genus: larix) are classified as a gymnosperm, which makes them a softwood......... even though they are deciduous they produce cones, so deciduposu or evergreen aren't the defining factor, method of reproduction and shape of the xylem are. Is this the five minute Monty Python sketch...

Ice cubes in plastic bag, hold against wax to freeze it then comb out with nylon comb. May need to be repeated several times. Success not guaranteed because of the fine nature of velvet and the fact that you cannot flex the material to break-out the wax particles Scrit

My God! Every red-blooded welshman's dream! :wink: (Same goes for people from Glossop, though :lol: ) And as for Anglo Saxons being a***h*l*s, the Celts aren't much better from my experience - but then I'm only saddled with a Welsh surname Personally I feel that whilst retaining a dead...

The Clarke one

If you buy a quality plug then the information, such as pukll-out figures, etc is available either as fact sheets or on a web site. This is one of the reasons architects and building engineers specify Fischer, Spit, Hilti, Rawl, etc fastenings rather than no-name "brown plugs" Using longer...

He's right, you know, the man is not wrong.....

The best way is to use a kitchen worktop jig, a couple of quick release cramps, a 30mm guide bush, a 2-1/2 to 3HP (1800 watts or more) 1/2in plunge router and a brand new 1/2in diameter x 50mm high TCT or TC-RT (better) cutter. Just like the other posts said..... Scrit

Companies like Fischer do give pull-out and support weights for their plugs, although their stuff is superior to the cheap brown plugs. I seem to recall that two #10 x 2-1/2in screws in Fischer S8 plugs into goo quality brickwork (not mortar, BTW) will support 250kg or so - in the past when I've...