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Spot on Roy as usual. It's all about preparation. A good key, and a good even suction overall.

I've used out of date plaster many times without any problems at all, but then I know It'll go off quicker, so I'm careful on which job I use it on. It's great for smaller jobs/patching etc, but you wouldn't use it on, say a large area, just in case you lose it. I wouldn't mix it with new...

It wouldn't do any harm getting some advice from a "reputable local plasterer", for his opinion. Get him to come and take a close look, and say what he thinks. As for me, you know what my opinion would be. Keep us informed anyway.

I didn't think that was plasterboard underneath with that type of cracks. If it was me, I wouldn't bother trying to repair the plaster at all. If it was me, I'd take the wall back to brick, check the joints in the brickwork, re-point here and there if required, then batten the whole wall,, with...

That cracking looks to me as though the plaster has come away from the surface, rather than cracks in plasterboard joints. Rub the back of your hand/fingernails gently over the wall, rather than tap,, you'll hear far more.

Welcome to the Forum. Are you saying that the cracked walls in your pics are dot and dabbed?

Yes,, always,, do it properly.

Well said Vinn,, It's not a pretty sight. There's so much prep involved there. Good on you for having a go ToxicToad, but some things are better left to those who KNOW what they're doing,,,, sorry mate! :-)

If you're using bell cast beading along the bottom, you can apply the scratchcoat a little thicker, where the bead kicks out, but still leaving room for the "top coat" render/roughcast.

You only use 1 stop bead. When you scratch coat, you only come out to half the thickness of the bead, so if you're using, say, a 10 or 12mm bead, only come out half way,, ish. Once the scratch coat has set and cured, and you're ready for the top coat of render to go on, then you can bring the...

If that's all you're going to do,( cutting a few holes for lights), then I wouldn't worry too much about that. Providing you wear a mask, and hold a paint tray underneath to catch any dust/debris, you'll have no problems at all. The amount of asbestos in artex is said to be "very minimal", but...

I'd do the same as Vinn,, patch, pva and then re-skim the whole ceiling, Use Bonding coat to flush off the artex, let it go off, , then skim with a couple of coats of multi finish. Don't attempt to scrape off/disturb any of the artex, just in case it does contain asbestos. You could also...

Sounds to me like the mix is too sandy,, not enough cement. Drying out too quickly is another reason for render to go sandy. Was the wall scratch coated first, and what is the wall made of,, brick, blocks??

Steve's right, take it right back to brick,,, all of it. Only a fool would skim over something that is knackered, ohh, and DON'T be fooled with the mesh. It's great stuff, but it's not meant to be used on walls etc that are ready to fall to bits. Another thing, I wouldn't blame the passing...

That wont be a problem at all Trevor. Once the areas been scratched, there's NO time limit as to when you put on the top render coat. Whenever you're ready, just give the s/c a good dampen down, then you're ready to put on the top coat.

Totally agree. Always better to go back to brick, clean/prep the area, then scratchcoat. I'd scratchcoat the area, then let it set and cure. It's always better to scrarch it then leave it a day or so, then put on the top coat. Remember to add a drop of waterproofer in the S/Coat too, otherwise...

Nothing will ever be 100%, but a plastered (float and set wall), done by somone who knows what he's doing, should NOT be far off. The very same as an expert builder, building level and plumb.

I'd agree with Roy, it"s certainly looks like a textured paint. I don't think you would ever patch that up, even if you could get the original stuff. It would stick out like a sore thumb. As Roy said, it's probably been patched up for a quick sale. It's a different colour too. Is the piece in...

Exactly,, gypsum onto cement, but not cement onto gypsum.

I would never let anyone prep for me at all. Any plasterer worth his salt would do his own prep. Preparation before plastering is the key to a good job. Bad prep, or lack of prep causes problems. The plasterer in this case must accept the blame.