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I normally use 1 part water to 1 part pva, and quite often, neat pva. The more water you use, the "weaker" the pva.

Same as before Ste8090. Give it a damp down, then brush on some PVA right away whilst it's still damp. After that, let it DRY, an hour or so. After it has dried out, mix up some dot and dab adhesive ready for using, then PVA the lintel, leave it to go tacky, ( a minute or so), then dab the...

Even one, 10kg bag would be too much, so there's yer answer.

Not a problem, damp down/wet the first coat you put on, with a spray or brush, then brush on a drop of pva, then fill it out with another coat of bonding right away.

I agree with our Steve, clean up the stonework, re-point and it'll look great.

The gap would fill up if you were to cut out a little bit more plaster board, put some timber noggins above the plasterboard, then cut and fit a plaster board PATCH, fix it in place with screws, then tape over it. BUT,,, the biggest problem you'll have though, is to match the old texture...

Bonding coat is an undercoat plaster that can be put on as a thin undercoat onto an uneven surface such yours, or as a thick undercoat coat onto bricks, block etc. Multi finish can be used in your situation, but I'd prefer to use bonding to give an even surface for the multi finish,,, each to...

Always bring the "deeper areas" out with bonding coat. Give them a good clean off, dampen them down/brush on some pva, then fill out with bonding coat right away. If you were confident enough, you could fill out the deeper bits, then give the whole wall a coat of bonding, let it set, then skim...

Keeping mess to a minimum too, is always the best way.

I use green "frog tape".

jut do it as Roy says, using galvanised clout nails. Give the chase a damp down, and pva before you fill it, and I would use bonding coat plaster. Make sure you push the plaster well into the chase to get behind the plastic conduit.

It doesn't really matter how quick plaster goes off, it's how long it takes to "dry out"ready for painting. The deeper the plaster/chase, the longer it'll take to DRY.

That's what you call a reply. I agree with every word Roy says.

I've done it both ways. It's better plastering the ceiling first, then add the spots. The main thing with that is to make sure the electrician knows exactly where the cables for the spots are. Plastering around fitted spotlights is not a problem either. Each to their own.

can you plaster onto osb

Agreed,, overboard it, you wont lose much height, a 2x1 inch batten, + 1/2 inch thick plasterboard. 1 and a half inch height loss overall.

I would never ask a customer to lift a carpet. I normally cover the carpet with good clean 3 metre square sheets, and then put my sheets on top. In all the years that i've been a plasterer, i've never made a mess of anyones carpet. Another thing is,, always take your shoes off when going out of...

That render looks as though it has "blown",,, (came away from the substrate underneath). If you tap it and it sounds "hollow", then that'll prove it.

Just out of interest Diydoger, how do you keep getting flooded,, leaking pipes? can they not be repaired by you neighbour to save you all this hassle?

You've no chance of repairing an artex ceiling and making the repair "invisible". The best way to repair that is to cut out the damaged area of plasterboard, ( which will probably go beyond the area shown), put some new noggins in to support the new area of plasterboard to be fitted, tape the...