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Well said Roy. I've seen that before where the edge of a sheet/end is damaged, and the p/d paper blisters up. How's things mucca,, still working hard? . Great to see you still posting.

Agree with Vinn, plaster it out evenly/flat, to the same plane as the high side, giving you a "flat wall" all the way across. Any joints in the plasterboard at the old wall junction would need to be taped as well.

Adam,,, it looks to me as if it is plaster that has blistered. "Gently" rub the back of your hand/fingernails over the area, and you'll soon hear if it is hollow underneath. Do that over other areas of the ceiling too. If it is hollow etc, get your plasterer back.

Saves wasting the cuttings I suppose. (y)

Great to read your comment Alastair my friend.

With the rusty nails, just use a q tip and dip it into some "oil based paint", and dab it onto the old nail heads. With the gap, just "jam the wire lath in", it'll never budge. Just before you put the plaster in, spray some water into the hole, then pack in the plaster. The "jammed in wire mesh"...

2 answers. 1,,, Scrim tape where the bonding meets the plasterboard. 2,,, Push some more wire lath into the gap, dampen down, then fill with bonding. Another thing worth looking at. I don't know what type of nails you used for nailing the wire lath on with, but make sure they're galvanised...

I agree with you Steve. That really is a very poor job. There's probably more bumps etc in those walls now, than there were before. If the sun shines across those walls during the day, you'll see the un-eveness, bumps and marks even more. An awful job as Steve says.

I'd oil the beams first. Sometimes, water/wet plaster can stain untreated wood/timber, especially mahogany, oak etc. Oil the beams, couple of coats, then use some Frog Tape along the junction where the beam meets the ceiling. Do as much as you can to keep the beams clean.

I beleive they were going to skim the ceiling with 22ct, gold plated plaster. It's a lot dearer than multi finish, but well worth the extra,,,, not!! £500 is a rip off.

It's corner tape that has come away from the plasterboard corner,,rubbish stuff!! As Roy said, fix a "thin coat corner bead" onto the wall corner, then either pva and skim the whole thing, (best option), or fill and feather out with easifill, (worst option).

A lot of these so called "plasterers" can only skim. If there's more too it than just a skim, they'll probably talk big, but not return with a quote to do the job. Many people keep the wooden bullnose corners, whether up an external corner, around window reveals, or anywhere else they're fitted...

Be very careful scraping off any loose bits, especially on ceiling plaster like yours, because it's so easy to make it spread. I normally get a stanley knife, and make a very light cut all around/just beyond the loose area, then gently take it off. Also, give the area a very light dampen first...

You could do it either way, but most would cut the holes first, get the cables in place, then plaster. Plastering first means there is always the chance of a mistake, maybe cutting the hole in the wrong place, , or chipping/damaging the plaster while cutting the hole/s, requiring small repairs...

To be quite honest, if you start removing areas of roughcast here and there, and patch it up, it'll look terrible. You'll never match the colour, the sand colour/type will be different, you'll never get it to blend in with the original, it'll always look a patch up. There are so many negatives...

Depends on how rough/heavy the old texture is.If it has a heavy texture, then yes,,,,, put on a coat of bonding undercoat to level it off a bit,,,, let it set,,,, then finish it off with multi finish. A pic would be handy

I would always plaster first, then screed the floor. As you said too, always leave a gap between the bottom of the wall and the floor surface,, a good inch/inch and a half at least,, the skirting will cover the gap.A good plasterer will always be aware of keeping things clean, but it's still...

Ljit,, I mis-read your post. I never read the bit about the window sill being cut back. If it was me, I'd mark where I wanted the sill to end, then carefully make a vertical cut each end of the window sill. I'd then get a wood chisel and carefully chisel off the waste, just beyond the flush, (...

I wouldn't go anywhere near that with a chisel. Just use a scraper to get rid of any proud bits we can't see, and then fill and feather away with a drop of readymix or easifill. Lightly sand down the area when it's dried out, then you''re ready to paint. A poor job though, if a plasterer left it...

Great to see you back again Alastair mate.