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Take this to the next scenario..........A radiator in a bathroom........under the floor 3m of plastic pipe feed the flow and return of the rad, but the tails to the rad are in copper.........would you bond this rad?

Thanks for reply Spark123. This is a hypothetical. Lets assume that the earthing conductor and the electrode have as much protection as Fort Knox. What mystifies me is that our main protective bonds into the METare 10mm2, then we run 2.5mm2 to the electrode.....it just doesn't seem to sit well...

Looks a bit messy.......it could be that this is a good earth and it is continuous throughout the circuit. Now we would need to see how this fitting is re-assembled so we can see the other parts.....this will give us an idea of the earthing requirements for this particular fitting.

Supplementary bonding seems a popular subject. Scenario: A radiator is fixed in a bathroom. The pipe under the floor is copper. The plumber fits a plastic push fit elbow under the floor for each copper tail. Do you bond the radiator or not?

Assistance please gentlemen with this table. Earthing conductor from MET through a buried duct into a pit with a lid. According to this table 2.5mm2 is adequate.........Tell me where I'm going wrong

And no need to take supplementary bonding back to the MET. If all the circuits in the bathroom have 30 mA RCD protection and you can confirm you have main protective bonds in place (usually 10mm2 linking gas and water incomers to MET.....all usually found close to consumer unit) then there is no...

Yes BAS am deff suffering from fat finger syndrome today!!!!!!!

Will it really necessitate the shutting down of the supply to the whole block? Has ze been measured at all the other flats to confirm it is not just a bad connection at your flat. Did the tester check that your earth cable is correctly connected, that the clamp was tight....did he open the CU to...

Correction to 1st senrence.....should read external expedance

As the internal expedance(ze) is so high basically it means that in the event of an electrical fault the mcb or fuse will take longer to diconnect than is allowed. Say you have a healthy ring circuit (0.5ohms)with a faulty toaster in. The mcb should disconnect almost instantaneously because it...

Am confused by this....i always understood that as the shaver supply from a socket with an isolating transformer had no earth it was impossible to get a shock........a demostration of this was gleefully exhibited by our college lecturer. He proved that 230v was present........and he proved that...

If youmean attaching mcb to busbar and connection points most CU's seem to have a head that is 50% slotted and 50% phillips. CK do a special screwdriver for this called modulo.......buy it if you are in the mood to treat yourself although I've never had a problem with a PH2

And a socket labelled 'outside socket' that has no IP rating, polarity of main tails

also same advice available in green book published by IEE. Electricians Guide. Only stipulation is that both appliances must be within 2m of each other. Can be run in 6mm2 with 32A breaker..........designated as a standardised circuit (i guess for those that can be bothered with calcs). Think...

The only danger here is that if your father-in-law is not familiar with the regs the LA hired inspector and tester may fail the installation........it maybe easy to do the remedial work, but then again it could involve major works, it really depends on your F-I-L's competency and his...

Well the regs say it is ok...quote 'preferably close to the point of entry of extraneous-conductive-parts into such rooms' However, if you are working to 17th edition and satisfy 3 pre-requisites you can do away with it: 1. All circuits in the room comply with requirements for automatic...

Thanks fellas........missed that other thread!!!!!

On my list a code 4

Can we now take it that 100mA S type RCD's are a thing of the past and that only dual RCD (30mA) split load boards, or indeed a board full of RCBO's comply where cables have no protection?

if you know which way the wires come from(floor or ceiling fed) you will usually find a junction box supplying the light. you can disconnect the power at this point. Test with a multimeter that you are disconnecting the right cable. Make sure the circuit is isolated at the consumer unit and not...