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SET is the temperature you setting that stat to, it'll then revert to the current room temperature.

Up until recently you could dispose of Asbestos for free :( Ring your local council, or use their website, and they shall give you a list of registered Asbestos collection centres. My local council charges buy the tonne, so even one board is around £150 :|

Nothing wrong with the pump, it's doing as its told. It'll have a pump overrun to lower the heat of the appliance after firing. By the extractor fan, do you mean the internal fan. If you put you hand in front of the flue terminal outside, if you can reach it, can you feel movement of air...

We've been told we, as a company, only cover the plumbing from the outlet side of the internal stop tap, the inlet pipe and the one in the ground is Anglia Water (as a example) responsibility. I've had them out before to replace seazed taps and knackered meters. If I'm wrong then I've learnt...

A picture would help. If this is the water meter tap then you could always borrow a neighbours handle, it's normally left in the well. If its a old brass tap with a missing handle then that's slightly tricky. Your local water company should be able to change it as anything upto the house...

Why go into the installer settings? Talk about confusing the situation. She just needs set it to manual. To do this press < once, set the temperature to 15c and walk away. Come the winter all she has to do is press > and the programmer will return to Automatic. :) It's clear to see which...

More than likely you have a stuck diverter or zone valve depending on your system. The UP2 programmer only controls the power to the motor connected to the valve. If it's jammed into position water can pass through it even when the power is off. When your hot water cylinder is calling for heat...

A combi boiler doesn't have a wicked flow rate. What's the flow rate of the cold? You've mentioned rates, but not if it's hot or cold. The boiler does have a flow restriction it it, but if the incoming flow is poor then the combi will be worse. I must say, if you wanted a really good flow...

I own exactly the same model of boiler. I've found, somewhat annoyingly that if you fill the boiler with the power ON the DHW pump kicks in a pushes on the pressure gauge. Try filling the appliance with the power OFF, also best when cool, this will give a real pressure reading rather than one...

Water towers are littered over Norfolk.

Advice given :wink:

To drain the condensation you need to remove the core of the Schrader valve, attach a small hose or rubber pipe over the now open valve. Next fill the system to around 2.5bar, this will force out the condensation, do this until condensation stops running from the vessel. Now dump any pressure...

I wouldn't use a guide. 1994 maybe old, but I work on much older :) You need to drain the condensation first' does the guide mention that or the correct pressure to charge the vessel too and how to do it? If its over charged you'll get the same problem, uncharged it'll keep dumping pressure.

Also, DIY work on a Gas boiler is not advisable :wink:

I'd call out a engineer ;) it's very very unlikely you'll need a new vessel. A vessel should be recharged frequently, some last a good few years, some only a year. I recharge allot in my normal working week. It's more than likely the vessel needs recharging. It's lost it's charge...

They sometimes do that, the relays tend to let go easily. Turn the power off at the main Central Heating switch, turn it back on and the clicking should stop. You'll probably need a new Receiver.

It's the Chemical cleaner, heat plus the force that does the work, not forgetting shutting down the rads and cleaning the circuit and rads one at a time :)

It's all hunky dory when their are approved seals for the job :wink: I've got a couple of trays full of different compound seals for the job required. Pretty dumb to fit a washer or seal thats not approved :) BG engineers have a powerful aid in their laptop, it's knowing how to use it...

Try and work one out for a Caddy :roll:

I have the correct valve on my BG van, with seals in the box. Thats how they come, the valve is taped to the box and the o-rings and replacement pilot nuts electrical cover are in a small plastic bag. We do indeed stock the O-Rings and Valve.