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Don't whatever you do buy one of those pieces of **** that corgi are pushing in their ever expanding catalogue of overpriced tat. I think it's called a silverline but a better and more accurate name might be crapline, *******sline, wasteofmoneyline - take your pick.

The instructions for the 6400 say that it is not suitable for gravity HW pumped CH unless part of a "C" plan system. What have you got? Oops, missed previous post.

As you do!

You could do, but the valves would make it illegal. Oh, and it wouln't do any good!

So these installs have been undertaken under the supervision of a qualified corgi? Sounds OK to me. I am sure that, unless corgi are staffed by complete morons, that the idea is to get practical on the job experience of each category of work and I can't see that it would make any difference...

If by three wire you mean having a neutral connection, then these usually contain a component called an antcipator. These are supposed to make the temperature sensing more accurate and also allow for an LED to be illuminated when there is a call for heat - but that is probably not a major...

He should have the wiring right in a second :lol:

Remove the link. Terminal #4 (Ch on) to COM SL (on) from Salus to #5 (white MV wire) SL (off) from Salus has no function. Obviously retain L, N & E to receiver.

You don't need mains switching to get it to work. Connect programmer #3 to terminal #4 to Salus common and remove the 230V link. Connect Salus NO to terminal #5 (MV white) and re-do all voltages.

Well, your're getting either high or reduced voltage from programmer terminal #3 to wiring centre terminal #4 when CH is off. It should be 0v at this point. i don't understand why the Salus is passing 240V to #5 though, I thought it was a volt-free switch, so can't see how you can get 240V...

Tchhh :lol: T4 is FROM the programmer, T5 is TO the MV. I now have no idea what you measured. Oh, and if you're going to do them again the volts at T6 would be helpful.

Seriously? in Bristol? Have you shut the filling link?

I assume for 3 & 4 you mean 4 & 5 - otherwise you have 240V connected to earth. Can you seperate the white from terminal 5 and determine where the voltage is coming from? i.e. the MV or the receiver. This is for your test #3 156v/240v

Can you measure the voltages at terminals 4 & 5? you will need a multimeter.

Ignoring the fact that, unless I am going blind, you do not appear to have a permanent live to your receiver, I would be interested to know what voltages you are getting at terminals 4 & 5 with all states from the programmer.

With the hot water on and the boiler firing, you should be able to get the heating working by operating the manual actuator on the motorised valve. However, if / when the cylinder reaches temperature everything will shut down - so this is just a temporary workaround. Get the installers...

Frost stat? Surely it must be easy enough to figure out where the switched live is coming from?

These are the B&Q column radiators? The instructions do not explain the reason for piping them this way which doesn't help. If they work OK, then just leave them.

Good luck with this one.

Just when I thought that this forum just wasn't funny anymore, along comes a post like this. Note to OP, start with the radiator valves, don't rush headlong into changing the rads.