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If you're up for DIYing the diagnosis of this then... Identify the type of programmer and what the connections to/from it are. Check the power to the programmer. If no power, check the supply (fused spur, then fuse box/consumer unit breaker). If power is there, but programmer not showing...

The timer or programmer for a boiler is really just an eletronic switch saying 'turned the CH on' or 'turn the HW on'. If this is broken, then the boiler won't be switched on. I stand to be corrected by the more experienced people on this board - cos I'm not familiar with this boiler....

I don't think 10 years is that old, if you've looked after it well and its not suffered any abuse. The fan will probably be about 100-150 quid for the part plus time to fit it, a lot cheaper than a whole new boiler (sucks air through teeth).

Ah so the fan may have been failing to shift enough air for the pressure switch, in its final days...?

What do you mean 'the board appears to be dead' ? Is this on the basis of smoke or charring ? Or no lights, no noise/movement from the boiler ?If you are competent/confident you can investigate both sides of the electrics with a multimeter. Not saying it isn't the problem, but PCBs are...

He's right that combis will push the water round at a higher pressure, and this will 'find' any weak connections in the current pipework. But this doesn't mean the pipes are going to fail. I'm not sure that having two pipes has much to do with it. Don't all radiators have two pipes ? !! [/i]

I think you still need the net value, which corresponds to the actual available heat output of the boiler, i.e. what can heat your house up. So multiplying by 3412, you've got about 75000 BTUs available.

Ha ha - get a quote, that will encourage you to do it yourself !! Of course, a job's worth what you will pay for it so its up to you...

I've used Fernox in my sealed system. You can apply it with a mastic gun via the radiator bleed valve. Basically you wait for the system to be cold, isolate a radiator and open the bleed valve. A bit of water comes out. You remove the valve completely and open the return pipe. Then squirt...

More information required - see the post at the top of the forum. Without it you will get bad guesses and little help. AND STOP SHOUTING. Does water come out of the hot tap ? What is the flow like ? Does the CH work normally until the boiler locks out when you call for HW?

'Put it back together again' ?? :? What did you do ? You just need to loosen the bleed screw by one turn to let the air out.

Get the installer back to fix this problem. If you've just paid for a new system to be put in, it should work !

Four thousand pounds ? :shock: I'm sure the boiler looks nice though, with all the gold leaf on it. Well I don't know what you got for your money, but the very least it should do is work.

You won't do much harm trying to loosen it with a bit of penetrating oil or WD40. Just mind the carpet ! Once its had that on for a bit, try turning them a little the 'wrong' way before turning it in the direction you want.

I'd avoid using rainwater if I were you. The pH may be different due to dissolved gases (depending on air quality), and it can have a good deal of suspended particules from soot and dust in the atmosphere. If you're putting inhibitor in the system, just use tap water and let the inhibitor do...

Are all the radiators that old as well ? They may be well rusted, and dissolved into sludge which has formed in your radiator. The second radiator gets warm because the water is able to flow through it. If it's return is blocked, there may be no flow through at all, so it won't have warm...

You're probably right about the abuses as well as benefits of CORGI. But lots of people on this board are novices or keen but over-confident DIYers ask whether they should use a candle or a match to find the gas leak. And the helpful people who give advice are keen to watch out for people who...

They need bleeding over a day or two with the heating running during that time. There's not one big air bubble which gets pushed around to the top of a radiator until you let it out. Instead there will be lots of smaller ones, and a lot of dissolved gas in the water. I've drained my system...

Anyone use an alternative insurance scheme ? I think there are a couple of others offering something similar.

This guy has to make a living. So of course you have to pay for the advice and the visit etc. But then if you've already paid for that visit, and he wants another 100 quid for fitting it (and from what you say, its quite easy to do), I'd just go and buy it yourself.