Search results

Best to check first how the stairs are fixed at the bottom tread (from the inside) also check for gas/water pipes and electric cables before cutting anything!! don't just assume it will be all clear!! If you do cut the bottom tread your stairs will be short of the new floor by the thickness...

With blood, sweat n tears lol. Sometimes karndean will lift quite easy once you get a corner up with a chisel, paint scraper etc, enough to get a grip on a corner, use pliers to pull it if it helps. If it's really stubborn you can hire a tile remover from HSS Hire for about 30/40 quid. If...

1 bag of washed pea gravel, 2 bags sharp sand and half bag of cement should do.

I use "A1F standard" as a seperation layer..

If it sounds pretty good to you mountain, why do think the installation manual says "must not" be used to isolate damp or moisture ?

http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/PDS-022-01%20Gyproc%20ThermaLine%20PLUS.pdf Above is the pdf file on Gyproc thermaline plus. You say you have "vapour checked" your walls with it when in fact it sounds like you have just "isolated" the damp problem which the pdf file says "you must not do"...

If it was a "uniclic" system such as "quick step" you could run the first part of the hallway the same as the lounge then come off at 90 degress for the return part. so the floor follows the hallway layout, but only with uniclic..!! Or you could seperate the return in the hallway with a "T...

There are no measurements which would help decide. It looks quite a large area to lay as one single floor though. The total area dictates the expansion gap required. Visually your hallway is a dog leg so it will run in the wrong direction on either the short or long run.. I would be tempted to...

No, not at all,, Theres lots of reasons why an old house either suffers with damp or gets away with it. Not every old property has damp problems. I was pointing out that quick fixes such as dot n dab plasterboard can exaggerate damp problems and restoring it in a more traditional manner will...

So many mention "lifting floorboards" ?? It's fairly clear you have concrete subloors, which won't have a DPM. The walls will also be solid (no cavity). so no need for airbricks. On a property with solid floors and walls it is pointless applying a chemical dampcourse and even more pointless...

The lime render that was on your walls allowed the slow release of moisture, hence you had very little damp in your 100yr old house. Now that you have coated the subfloor with bitumen, any moisture under it(and there will be as there is no dpm) will have nowhere to go and will be pushed...

Ideally 6mm ply is preferrred, 4mm is too thin. And if your floor is really uneven 12mm or 18mm ply should be used. Why do you worry about holes in your original floor by ringshank nails? You are covering it arn't you ?

Your flooring company, builder and underfloor heating provider will all gladly take your money. You need 1 company that does it all and guarantees it..

If you don't know what you are doing then leave it to someone who does !! This is a DIY forum isn't it?

Yes Elastilon is sticky on the upside only (unless there is a new breed i don't know about) so it doesn't adhere to the subfloor. Trying to sand your parquet on top of this, on top of a concrete suspended floor doesn't sound good. It might work but probably not. Either way, it's a bad idea...

500 x 70 x 19mm ??? you could almost call them planks !! Never seen parquet flooring with a groove on all 4 sides, it's usually T&G and if they were previously laid in bitumen, they wouldn't have been made for biscuit jointing which would take forever to install. You can buy the tongues but...

You really don't need to remove any floorboards, going over the top of original is the norm plus it gives a bit more soundproffing leaving the original in. You can fit a solid wood floor but most need to be installed by nailing down which isn't always ideal upstairs as the blows from a...

I doubt that even if you have split the tongue by using 6 nails in each block, that this is the cause of the creaking. More likely to be insufficeint thickness of ply (4mm is too thin), spacing between the nailing of the ply (should be every 6 inches in both directions) or loose flooroards...

Unless you have a height issue or have to take the existing floorboards out for some other reason, just lay your new floor at right angles to the existing floorboards,, on top of the t&g flooroards.. That wall in question is not load bearing but is fixed to your floorboards..

You should have used 6mm ply nailed down with 20mm ringshank nails spaced every 6 inches (that 2mm extra makes a big difference) and parquet adhesive. Theres no need to nail down parquet but 6 nails in each block ??? may be enough to split the tongue.