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A. No need to sand A. Yes, make sure both ends fall on a joist A. No need to treat the underneath A. Yes, you can varnish without stain for a natural finish

JUst ask building regs, thats what they are there for...

Just ask BC, they are there to help.

Your joiner is technically correct !!

If they are pine and stained with mahogany, then definataly cheaper to hire a good decorator. One easy test, buy some sand paper and rub the stain off to see !!

It probably won't last long,,, try a vinyl.

Could be a number of things !! First, it might not be damp/wet... it's possibly just a different mix thats had too much cement added and looks a different colour. Also, most concrete floors should have an expansion gap around the perimeter, maybe the gap has been filled in more recently ? a...

Granite floor tiles over woodchip ?? You need to establish if the woodchip is green or white first. If it's green, nothing will adhere to it and you will have to overlay with ply. Even if it isn't green will chipboard take the weight of your new tiles without movement ? You will also have...

As thin as it has to be to fit in the gap. Leave an expansion gap of @ 15mm to each wall and cover with skirting or beading. Don't forget you also need the same expansion gap under door frames.

Yes you can drill a series of holes with say a 10mm masonry bit about an inch apart. Make sure your template is spot on though. This weakens the wall and makes it easy work for knocking out with a lump hammer & bolster, pretty much dust free.

A Portanailer available from most hire shops is used to secret nail through the tongue of the flooring. A straight nailer can't do this. Yes you can lay engineered boards on underlay and glue tongue & groove. It's called a "floating floor".

Remove the skirting it's the only way. If you put a sharp knife through the top of the skirting to release any caulk/paper overhang etc, it will come off and go back on quite easy.

No amount of measuring will allow you to fit a full plank around the perimiter walls. You will have to make cuts.

Thanks Burnerman & Peter N I was realy hoping for a leaky rad !! I've read a lot about HGF problems so looks like the garage it is.. Thanks again guys..

18 mm ply over the whole area. Screw to original joists at the timber end. Lay a 1200 gauge visqueen to the concrete end and overlay with same 18mm ply. Hire a hilti nailer to fix the ply or plug and screw to concrete.

You can buy various hardwood profiles from most floor retailers that will cope with 20mm height difference. Or... make one from a piece of 20mm flooring..

JohnD's reply is spot on.. But realy,if you take your old piece of flooring to a local DIY shop they have loads of offcuts of 18mm ply that they will cut for you, then just screw it in with 4 screws in each corner. Drill 4 pilot holes and countersink first though. If you realy need to get...

Hi all,, hope you can help here !! THE PROBLEM.. My beloved 1996 MGF 2 seater is losing coolant faily quickly. If i top up the expansion tank, it will empty and start to overheat within a 5/6 mile drive. Yes i have pulled over and let it cool before topping up again and it has never...

The easiest way using minimal materials is to remove 2/3 floorboards and pack the joists up from below. Replace the floorboards. You will have to remove any offending skirting to do this but if carfeully done they will go back on.

By rights the damp course should always be visible above the concrete floor level. Maybe yours had been added to over time. If you cover the dpc with concrete or screed it's known as "bridgeing" and could start the onset of rising damp. If it's been like this for some time (sounds like it...