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Hi Simon, Is the subfloor concrete, timber or block and beam ? And any ideas as to the cause ?

Didn't realise it was a new floor covering. Either way, any liquid spilt will find it'sway "down". Not sure if your floor has a micro bevell, even if it hasn't the joints are obviously a weak spot. It will revert back to normal so long as you attend to it. Never attempt to fill the joints...

The green paper like underlay looks like "fibre board" (laminate underlay) should be about 4mm thick and a consistency of egg box material. (best way i can think of to describe it lol ). Under that is a very thin DPM (damp proof membrane) clear plastic sheet. Beyond that looks too scary to...

The one downside to using a Hilti nailer is they punch the batten down so hard it follows the contour of the concrete, which if uneven will make the battens uneven (not level). By using screws, you can place plastic packers under the batten (on low spots) and get your levels more precise...

Hardboard is the wrong choice. You need a liquid dpm (damp proof membrane) and a levelling screed if you want it to look right and last. A pro job i think.

If you are overboarding with either 12 or 15mm ply, tile adhesive at 3 to 5mm and floor tile at 10 -12mm, make sure your appliances, if they are free standing, will fit back under the worktop !!

JohnD's advice sounds spot on. But it could still be a moisture problem that just isn't visible. You could hire a simple moisture meter and run it over the entire floor to see if it picks up any differences where the damage is. If is dosen't, at least you can rule out any potential leaks...

It should dry naturally, give it some time. It might also be due for another coat of oil ??

you could use levelling screed made specifically for ply. http://www.f-ball.co.uk/product_category.asp?catID=smoothing Click on 700 flex or 700 superflex. The site also gives you outlets to purchase from. Would save taking the ply up, quick drying and a good substrate for tiling to.

If it's B&Q tile loc, take it back it's pants. Really though, it's akward to fit and havn't done one for years but if it's still the same you have to lift the entire row and get some more hands to keep it there.

The steel work alone can add a huge cost to a conversion. If they are too big to go in in one piece they have to be welded on site, a scaffold required and maybe a crane etc etc. Anyone who has undertaken work to BR will know how much things can change making it impossible to offer a "fixed...

You'll probaly get a few different answers on this but my preferred method would be to secret nail onto the joists using a dpm building paper www.novia.co.uk stapled to the joists. It's about £1 per/m2 but will protect your floor from moisture. At the concrete end i would lay 1200 gauge dpm...

Yes 18mm WBP ply is what you should use. You can seal the perimeter with silicon after the floor is laid.

www.marmox.co.uk/

It's a sound idea.. But,,,,, you will need a seperate DPM (liquid) under your final 10mm screed if you want to glue pine flooring to the slab. If you level your concrete well enough you should get away with a 3/4mm screed.

We have different regulations here so its realy best to check locally before proceeding.. Sorry :)

Errrr .... Shouldn't you have a roof on before installing your screed/celotex ??? Not sure about celotex but kingspan (same gear) says it should be discarded if it ever gets wet !! I'd contact celotex to be sure if i were you.

A levelling screed and DPM underlay is all you realy need.

If you can crawl in the "crawl space" then kingspan can be fitted between the joists. If not, you realy down to using floating floor underlay which is either 4mm thicknes on a roll or 7mm thickness in a fibre board. http://www.carpet-underlay-shop.co.uk/fibre-board-7mm-96sqm-pack-31-p.asp...

I've fitted hundreds of them but never seen any at 22mm. easy enough to make though with 2 drill bits and a plank of wood flooring to match... Well actually a pain in the a... but doable !!