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DPM underlay (for laminates) should only be used on a concrete subfloor !! NOT a timber sub-floor.. But there is no reason i know of why it can't stay down to save on underlay for a carpet. At 3mm thickness tho, it's not going to pass as a quality carpet underlay.. I'll hide with you Lymm...

[quote="WoodYouLike";p=" if you can tell me how long a piece of string is To measure a piece of string simply take both ends and pull untill straight. Then using a tape measure, measure from one end to the other and voila !!

First of all,, remember you have every right to choose whatever flooring you like within budget allowance. Oiled oak is a good alternative, both character wise for an old cottage and easier maintenance. Your dog might still scratch it but it's much easier to repair/maintain than a varnished...

Thanks fox, sounds like a plan !! cheers

Hi there, I want to make up some chunky 2" thick corner shelves out of oak, How do i go about fixing them to the (dot n dab ) wall with invisible brackets ? Ive seen the brackets used for staright shelves but these wouldn't work in a corner... Any suggestions would be much appreciated..

You should remove the carpet from the first step (riser), lay your laminate with 5mm expansion gap then replace the carpet to the riser. If you make a mess of the cuts, use underlay before fitting the carpet back.

Yes it is possile but thats a lot of concrete !! You could use hardcore initially to bring the height up, then a layer of sand. The DPM i would incorporate (where possible) into the brickwork below your original damp course, effectively giving you 2 damp courses. Fill the remaining with...

Do you know what type of sreed was used and the thickness ? If it was "pumped" in, then it's likely to be Anhydrite, if it was shoveled in then concrete or sand/cement screed. This is important !! Either way, all screeds have there own drying time and this doesn't begin until it is sealed...

Sorry www.novia.co.uk (hope the link works this time!!) By the way, i think woodyoulike's advice is completely wrong. You can hire your own portanailer and buy building paper for less than £1 per/m2 as opposed to trying to take your floor back (not much chance of that unless there is...

You could secret nail your oak to the joists beneath the woodchip, you will have to lay it in the same direction as the woodchip. yOur woodchip will be nailed to the joists so you will know where the joists are. Use a building paper (www.novia.co.uk) between the woodchip and oak, it's less than...

Yes, i understand what damp proofing entails, you are being completely "ripped off" for mortgage purposes. Get your own quotations !!

I wonder what critical information your mortgage company revealed by drilling a hole ??? If your subfloor did indeed have a DPM it has now been destroyed, well at least that small part has. As small as it is though, any moisture beneath the DPM will find it's way to that point and could well...

The flooring you removed was probably pine flooroards. Easy to replace and about a third of the cost of oak.

Ask the cowboys that made the hole to finish the job !!

Theres moisture/water getting to that part of the floor somehow and i doubt it's condensation from the toilet. Find the source and stop it, your floor will dry out and any lack marks will disappear.

If your existing base is solid then a 60mm (2.5 inches) sand/cement screed should be fine. A 100mm concrete screed is only necessarry if you are laying direct to earth/hardcore.

At £2500 for damp proofing (walls only) make sure the company who is to carry this out is "long established" and remember you have the right to employ your own damp proofing company, not the one that your mortgage company suggests. You should get the same done for @ £800 for a 2 bed terraced...

You can glue straigt to a concrete floor after a moisture test has been carried out. If the RH readings (relative humidity) are below 75% then it is safe to proceed. if they are above 75% then it isn't and you will need a DPM (damp proof membrane). The place you bought or are buying the...

Brilliant !! A syringe, ink cartridge, pva and a brick lol !! i've been reading all these and replied to one of gilly's posts with her underfloor heating. Anyway, a straight answer for you two..... i've been laying karndean for years (the approved way of course!!) but from time to time...

Hi chris, You can't just lay karndean on sand/cement screed, it might look level but i assure you it won't be level enough. My usual procedure is to allow the screed to dry out naturally below a level of 75% relative humidity. You need a pro to take these measuremnts for you and it's a 24hr...