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All of them are right really. Your existing structure is concrete. i.e sand, gravel, cement. But the whole you are filling is very shallow so either a 4/5 to 1 mix of of sand & cement or 3 gravel, 2 sand, 1 cement. The gravel (10mm) just adds extra strength but not absolutely necessarry. Even if...

You need to do a moisture test first or lay a liquid DPM before fixing directly to concrete. Then you will need an adhesive that is compatable with your DPM, such as F-ball B93. You might also need a levelling screed if you subfloor isn't level within (3mm over 3metres).

Remove it, there is no stabaliser !! Scrape up as much as possible, prime with neoprene primer, lay latex.

woodyoulike is an expert on airbricks, i would ask her advice before proceeding.. But no, don't install a DPM. The airflow beneath your subfloor lets moisture escape but some will pass through your floorboards. By using a DPM that moisture will be trapped and will eventually affect your...

Personally a matt fisnish is a waste of time, shows the slightest footprint, only saicos know what the ultra matt looks like as they havn't sold any yet !!

Lino is actually a very natural floor covering made from the oil from a lineum tree, hence the name "linoleum" lino for short. you will probably be thinking about a more modern covering "cushionflor" which is man made and generally ****e. Some manufacturers claim them to be UFH friendly !! i'm...

Osmo do make a very soft brush for the oil application but they are about £20 to buy. Harris do a pasting brush which is very similar and high quality, i know this as i had to take a chance on it working when i needed a new brush in a hurry, (long story...) I have a pole much like a broom handle...

I would avoid both woodchip and ply. Ply has shot up in price recently and you will have a lot of waste end matching to a joist. Woodchip should never have been invented, it's cheap but will squeak !! all day long. Why not use pine T&G flooring in either 19mm or 22mm. You never said what...

OSMO, 3032 or 3232 www.osmouk.com/osmopolyx.cfm?chapter=34 - A realy good natural finish in either satin or matt, the above numbers are for satin finish. Good luck

Basic theory not too bad. A solid fix using spreadable adhesive is prolly your best method but.... 2 different sub-floors!! Ashphalt needs to be primed and screeded to get a decent fix and concrete needs to be below 50% relative humidity to fix direct to. When was the concrete insatalled and...

You can get a face nailing attatchment for the portanailer but if it is on hire you will struggle. You can strip the nails (from protanailer) into singles, hammer them in and punch them home, leaving a very neat slot that you can fill.

Remove most of the loose material and fill with a dry mix (very little water) of 3 gravel (10m) 2 sand, 1 cement.

You could try screws and lots of them, check how it has been fixed and the distance between each nail, theres no restrictions with woodchip, which in my opinion should be outright banned from the building industry. It won't cost much or take much time but worth a try. If is still squeaks, you...

You can fit a new floor but can't remove furniture or trim doors ?? Get organised lad !! You either do the whole job and charge accordingly or just fit floors... you will find the latter will get you less work and the former more problems !! Know your limits and be straight with the customer..

Also, most electric under floor heating is just 3mm thick in cable of matt form and the screed used has to flexible and just enough to cover the cables (4-5mm). If you had a 10mm screed and say a 20mm parquet floor you would have to turn the heat on about 2/3 hours in advance of the floor...

I think a good option would be electric underfloor heating and natural stone, something like travertine which will fade very little and has come right down in price recently.

If there is a dpc, likely bitumen,, it has already been bridged by the tiles if it is a concrete floor as the dpc sits just a few mm above the concrete. It will do no harm at all to remove them and fit skirting.

Look on the kingspan website. If you give them the measurements they will advise on correct insulation to abide with building regs, which you need if you want this room to be officially converted. You don't have to insuate the walls if the cavity is already insulated, drill a hole and have a look.

No 1 It's an unheated shed and your original concrete although cracked will have settled to a degree by now and isn't a bad base to start with.

Why don't you just use timber joists, flooroards and airbricks? The same as the rest of your house..