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Tap the existing plaster and see if its "Boxy"...

If you have different areas of suction then you have to equalise it so you can spread it! Rake all the loose stuff of and wire brush it all. Then you can "scut " it. Which is basically a splatterdash mix that you throw (scut) on to the walls. It has to be quite runny so it "splats" on your wall...

Ask your plasterer..;)

He cant be a very good plasterer if he doesn't know how to "scut " it all !!!

There is no plan there just a major bodge so get rid of them...

First of all is it a new window that has been fitted? They have fitted a batten across the top to hold the plaster board up. but if you look at the front edge it is curved. I have never seen the way they have packed the head out with P/B on edge!!! It looks like they have packed the sides out...

Tell them to saddle up their horses and fook off!!!!!

I would knock all the plaster off check the studs and give them a good spraying with wood preservative, then put some building paper over the out side area (double it up if you like). Then cover it with stainless mesh (2 pieces ) fixed to the studs. Then you can spread a coat of sand and...

Is the chipboard moisture ressistant ?

Use drywall adhesive but you will have to criss cross the bitumen wall with an angle grinder to get a "key" for the adhesive, I would not trust the bitumen to give a good key!!! Also lots of dots of adhesive on your board...

Well done Steve for spotting my deliberate mistake...:love: lt must be an age thing. I am sure l have skimmed on it before with no problems...Just read the pdf your right steve. So DONT skim on these boards without prepping them first...(y)

How big is your wall height and length?

What do you mean you are going to use bonding agent then skim? Just treat the boards like plaster boards and put some skim on the joints then bed the tape in and another thin skim of plaster and skim as normal. If you leave the scrimmed joints to dry out then put either some sbr over them before...

Dry wall adhesive isn't gonna break the bank and you can put it in a poly bag and seal it up and it will last for ages !

You dot and dab it with dry wall adhesive lots of dabs about 6 inches apart down edge of board and every six inces across the board Times that by size of board (8'x4'boards )and you have a solid area to hold together.You can not put a dot here and a dot there .l have done this type of fixing...

What you have to do here is knock off all the old plaster on front of brest and sides.Then cut a square hole in the thermalite blocks in the centre of the third coarse up say 6"across by 4"down to accomondate a 9×6 plastic hit and miss vent.But first you have to overlap the therms and concrete...

I cant decide by the pictures wether they are clay tiles on the roof or red asbestos slates!! But what ever they are they need addressing. As vinn said the lead flashing or valley on the rear of the stack is knackered! I would think that there will not be any roofing felt under the slates/tiles...

Where does the pipe to the rad come in? Is it buried in the floor? If so it may be leaking and tracking back up the wall. Feel around both valves on rad and see if there is any moisture there. Just a thought!!

I disagree l have dot and dabbed loads of insulated boards with dry wall adhesive and find that its the best method. But l must admit l have never used screw fittings on boards. So am not discounting your method !!!! Horses for coarses ;)..