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If you use bonding then you will have to skim it to take the tiles I don't think you can lay tiles on bonding,,,I would knock off all the "boxy" stuff then dub it out with sand and cement mortar. Then you can fit your bath and sort out the rest.....

When it rains does it come over the gutter on the back of the chimney? It looks like the lead on the chimney needs beating to the shape of the gutter! Have a look when you get a rainy day. It might be running over and going under the soffit. Also the other side of the chimney looks like the...

Stand them on their edge and if you have a gap at the top, get two pieces of wood and put one long ways on and the other on top of it and lift board on top of second piece of wood and lift it up with your foot till board touches ceiling and put a few screws either side of board then take your...

It would probably be quite easy to remove it all. But if you do then keep soaking it as you take it off. When it is all off then you can decide if you want to put the wall back on with sand and cement or "dot and dab" it with plaster boards. It looks like sand and lime plaster if it is then...

Hope you can understand what I have put up you might have to read it a few times to get the jist of it

When slating a roof like yours every slate has a "lead soaker"up the abutting wall underneath then starting off with lead soaker under the first slate and stretching over the facia board so the rain runs down the roof and the lead under the first slate kicks it into the gutter.They are usually...

Did you put a "scratch coat" on then a float coat?

Are you putting on a "scratch coat" first?

Find out where the sand came from and take it up with the suppliers of rendering sand that gave you this problem!!!!! Also I would blame the plasterers for not picking up on it !!! A good plasterer should of picked up on it!!

I would go with plaster boards that are not going to be too much waste on the width of the joists.. Work out what are the joists size between each one and use plaster boards to suit...And use tapered edged boards and tape and skim them level before you skim the whole ceiling. (Uni-bond the...

If you caulk it with enough caulk to run your thumb along it. It will take the expansion and contraction of daily life so crack on ...

If the plaster was sound you could of dabbed over it. But what you have done is good enough to dot and dab your boards on... As long as there is no dust on the wall you should be ok. You could give it a mist spray of water to kill any dust left on..

At least you get peace of mind when you use tanalised timber...

You could "cross batten" it with2"x1" treated batten and find the lowest joist and make that your datum to work to. Get some thin wooden packers and pack the battens so they are level..

If you look at the first picture you will see a black line on the building. It looks like the path may have run level with the line at one time. And over the years it looks like the path has been built up! Are you getting damp low down at floor level in that area? I have an house with 20" walls...

Yes...

If your right handed ,start work from top left to right and opposite if left handed. If you haven't got a mixer I will tell you of a little "tip" that I invented in the 8o's (and still use it when working with no electrics) Get yourself a 6ft x6ft.(Or bigger!) sheet of viscreen (polythene) and...

You can put your plaster board up to the wall and make an inch hole in relation to where the cable is and pull it thru. Before you fix board that will be the centre of your socket. Of coarse you will have all the studs marked out where they are on your board with the board in its position and...

If you are using bonding you can throw a bit of cement in it and it will go off quicker for you. I have used this trick a few times, I don't know if any of the other lads do it !!!! I have never had a problem with it..

Always worked for me Steve couple of rubs over and sorted. I am talking about a trowel with a good edge and a little dink in it .