Search results

If you have an open chimney then you are going to get water in when it rains.. So you need to put cowls on your chimney or hoods to stop water going down it...imagine how much water will go down your chimney with the rain we are getting, its got to show on the chimney as the bricks will act as a...

Very rare that the heads come off when screwing into plasterboard on top of studs and noggins!! And you can get different thicker and longer screws for form work or for screwing into a wooden back grounds...If you are using 3" screws then it would be better to put a pilot hole in first...

Might be worth putting in an air-brick in. Or make a hole in the top part of chimney and a vent at bottom and the air flow might help it dry out a bit quicker..It seems like a bit of a rough job on the plastering, He didn't use bonding as the backing coat did he? If he did that's why it's not...

We were in the VW Camper (1976) and have a Volkswagen club and it was decided that we should have a New Year campout and see New Year in...It was really windy but no rain. There were about 30 people there and we had a great time..

We were out camping in a field last night letting the new year in with a bunch of VW owners,, (Nutters)...

Just like to wish all the lads on here a"Merry Christmas, and a great "New Year....

If the wooden lintol is not rotten (test it by poking a screw driver in it) then I would paint some wood preservative on it and let it soak in, (Put a few coats on it). Then when its dried in bring it out to the brick work with plaster board, then leave the plasterer to sort it out..

Do you mean your are going to render just the bottom of your bay window?

If it is a cavity wall I would knock all the plaster off the left hand side and about 9 inches of the right hand side (Plumb a straight edge to wall and then grind down it to get the plaster off) Grinding it should stop it going "boxy" if you had hacked it off. Then you can dot and dab plaster...

If you are thinking of fitting Child/dog gates on the stairs then they should be fixed to a wooden batten that has been fixed to the wall. You just cant stick battens on the wall Willy Nilly. By the look of your photos I would say that the walls are "lath and plaster". I might be wrong but if it...

Get some galvanised plasterboard nails and nail them in the brick coarses either side of you conduit and the heads of the nails should hold your conduit in place..If plaster board nails are not big enough get some bigger "galv" nails...

As long as the area where your putting p/board is not a wet area carry on..

You are right they are not waterproof but as long as overlapped edges( (corners) and shower bases are fixed with a good silicone (Dow Corning) a bit more expensive but I have used it for years and no probs. with it. And I think with tiling, done with good named brands of adhesive and proper...

It worked for me many times !!

Just a thought, when you clean your paddle out (by spinning it around in a bucket of water) after you have mixed your plaster up. Make sure you take the plug out of the socket before you put a brush on the blades to clean them. It's not always the first thing you think about but it is better to...

Ok. I used this trick (I don't know anybody else who has done it) (Only the lads I have shown) What I did was get a piece of thick gauge polythene and if I was doing this on my own I would only use a piece about six foot by six foot square (if there were two of us I would use a bigger sized...

As a matter of interest are you using a mixer for your mixes? If not I will tell you another way of mixing your mortar..;)

Your scut coat is to give your scratch a good surface to go on. When I say mix by the bucket it means that all your mixes must come from the same sized bucket or what ever you use to gauge your mixes correctly...

I have seen rusted galvanised mesh but not galvanised nails. There is also the cost of nails against ss/screws and washers. Depends on who is paying the bills.. Also a time factor with screws as opposed to nails,,,

I would and have done all the above for years. The reason between pva and sbr is that they both do more or less the same job (SBR) is more expensive and PVA is a lot cheaper and will both do the same job.. SBR was brought in a few years ago when everyone had "Dry Rot" and "Wet Rot" and the...