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If the ceiling joists are the right size and thickness and there are floor-boards down (which I imagine they are) then you shouldn't get any movement, unless the ends are rotten and your house is over 100 years old then you might get a bit of movement. But you would probably feel the bounce when...

Tell him to give you a price for the job and finish..

If you scroll down to the bottom of the page you will see 5 threads on the subject that you mentioned. You can click on any one and look at the information and most of your questions will be answered.. There is a fantastic amount of information on these sites and most of what people ask will be...

If you know you should put a backing coat on before skimming then you have answered your own question.;)

No!!!

I would fill any big holes with some tile adhesive and put some of your old tiles on it to bring it level and just spread some adhesive over the rest to bring it level with the wall and let it go off and then tile over the top of it. Where your back to brick do the same as you would on a big...

If is is Artex on the ceiling then it wouldn't be easy to match it in. Also you would have to strip the Artex off along the joint that has opened up! So it would be better to "Prep" the ceiling and skim over it and flatten it out.. Ask the boys who quoted you what actually was they going to do...

Leave a band of old plaster along the top of the wall about 6"to 8" down then fill in the area where the band has come off by screeding along the old screed you have left on. Then leave a screed again at the bottom of the wall and do the same as the top screed to get it all in one. Make sure you...

Use a standard skim bead to replace the dry lining bead.. You might be able to feather it in with some "Easi-fil"...

You will have to support the plaster board, cut the board so it fits into the opening (Put this up first as the two pieces either side should be put on after.) Leave enough width on the board so you can trim off excess when side cheeks are fitted. Get two pieces of 2"x1" so they both fit either...

You cant dot and dab straight on to foil back plaster board. There is no suction on it...You may be able to sbr the back and throw sand on it but I have never heard of that being done. See what the "lads" say....I stuck polystyrene onto foil back with "Unibond" years ago then dot and dabbed...

There's your problem, render around window!!!

Galvanised will do the job but it will break down at sometime but not for along time. I am not saying don't use it as it will do the job. I am pretty lucky cause the guy I am working for can afford to use stainless lath when we need it... It's your choice ;)

That will do the job mucka,,,,

No mucka that stuff is for painting or spraying on a wall. You need a mortar additive. A water-proofer and read the instructions on the container..

Make your bricking mortar ( 4-1 and some W/proofer in the mix )so it will lay your bricks and you can render (brush) over them and do your flaunching with the same mix and use a brush to shape it how you want.. Try to do all the work in one "hit",,

When you say "drain pit" do you mean inspection chamber? Put a couple of pics up. You can use quick set to repair pipes that are live and patch up cracks in pipes with it and it "goes off" very quickly.....

Try to cut all the plastic off the concrete then mesh it with stainless mesh and throw some 4-1 mortar on it and try to shape it a bit with a 4-1 mix and brush it up to a reasonable shape...But you will have to incorporate a good water-proofer in the mix to hold back the water. Or shutter it up...

It might be the old wall paper paste that was left on when the walls were stripped.. Throw a drop of water on it from a brush and see if it just runs off..

Nice to see you back on the forum alastairreid will be up your neck of the woods for Christmas,,