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Not doing very well at this am i :D Dont worry, i understand, i can find something

Like this? https://www.toolstation.com/heavy-duty-flat-strap/p50096

I see what you're saying - i wont be rendering it in, and i never intended to do that - what i was thinking initially was rendering up to it but think it would be easier to batten as the updates suggest. It will only be covered between the worktop and bottom of wall cabinets - anyone who opens...

Thanks, will be definitely not drilling/screwing into it at all. That is something i had considered - just fixing the battens up and fixing the cabinets straight to them - then potentially just boarding the area between the top of the base units and the bottom of the wall units. It would...

Easier to fit a cabinet on a flat wall than to try and cut 500mm out of the bottom of the cabinet

Thanks - just making sure thats what you meant by good access to the cut out and meter. I will have to use a 900 cabinet i think due to the size of the board and layout of the room. It will therefore be two doors and a centre bar in the cabinet - but if needs be the cabinet will lift off the wall.

Thanks, assuming if i leave a few cm either side of the wooden board (and a bit more below where the cable is) it'll be ok?

Hi all. The electricity supply for the house runs under the concrete garage floor, then up the wall to the board. I am trying to finish/board the wall, but this cable is around 50mm from the wall (mostly less than that but it then comes away from the wall to attach to the chipboard with the...

Just been out and had a look at the doorway. I currently have thermalite closed cavity, and beneath the door frame i have a vertical dpc between outer and inner leaves. Does this mean i can leave this all at it is, and block in the door without opening the cavity? Thanks

i think i would prefer that option - problem being two bricks from floor + batten makes a need for skirting of nearly 200mm? Shame about the neighbour... rendering isnt actually noisy though is it? Mix by hand?

This is in an integral garage. Will be using the room for storage/occasional workshop. Just making it a bit nicer really, and hoping it will warm the room up above - will be fitting a new front door with no draughts, and adding a radiator. The floor to dpc varies from the back of about a brick...

Many thanks - obvious when i think about it.

Thanks, sounds like foam then - would this all come out if i open up the cavity? How would i then fill the 'new' cavity that i create? Full fill batts, are they ok with the other insulation type? How would i open up the cavity - if you look at the pics you can hopefully see that the wall to one...

thanks, will remove the step etc and see whats left - i suppose i need to do a course of engineering bricks first, then DPC on top to match the other side. RE: Drilling holes. How big/many? And, whats the point in venting the cavity - it has had cavity insulation fitted, blown in i assume so...

You understood my thoughts exactly! I am planning the one on the right - appreciate its not a to scale drawing, but i am planning on leaving a bigger gap around the dpc though - in other words slightly less cement on the wall. Is it ok then to bridge the dpc with a porcelain tile?

Hi, after a bit of advice with blocking up a doorway as shown in the pictures. 1) Do i need to remove the concrete sill here, i cant be certain but it looks like the concrete has been shaped to fit the door, and its about a brick deep. The next door along (kitchen) has two courses under the...