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Look for a drain valve around the outside of your house. Open it up with a spanner. Let it run for 60 seconds and shut it off. Check header tank to see if it has emptied. If it has pour in yourinhibitor and untie the ballcock and in theory that should be it. PS...dont fully unscrew the drain...

or a five pence piece and tap washer :wink:

Do u have a combi boiler or do u have a hot water cylinder(tank)? If its a tank its a certainty that dirt has made it up to the ballcock and is blocking it. Go into loft and give the ballcock arm a shake. If tank is full it means u have an airlock in the hot waterpipework.

You could switch off one radiator (or towel rail is easier if u have one) by turning the radiator valves off on both sides. Then undo one of the top blanks on the radiator (or towel rail). Then syphon some of the water out of the radiator and pour in your inhibitor using a funnel. Tighten...

Or it may be possible that the header tank was full of sludge and by airing the rads you have drawn the sludge down to the pump.

Too funny!!..................and true!!!!

Plenty of space could mean anything.......the width ofrad valve even.....how many times have u fitted a rad close to a perpendicular wall? Or what about rads with side plates? StelradCompacts for example....they are fully enclosed with just the top being open.........ive just hada...

You cannot connect it to drainage system....it is a warning pipe......re-route it to the outside somehow.

As said , they MUST BE VENTED DIRECT TO THE OUTSIDE! In my honest opinion i wouldnt get one.....death traps.....it just needs the catalytic convertor to fail and you've had it!! :!:

I dont think the recent Sunvic valve wiring diagrams differ from the older ones. Ifu can find a new wiring diagram on the web it may help u.

In fact...just about every energy efficiency website ive just looked at reccommends a shelf.

I will take your points on board but i'm gonna dig out my college notes if ive still got them cause ive got a diagram somewhere of this. Just found this.....pay attention to the SHELF SECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :!: :!: http://www.fightforheating.com/index.cfm?sid=22173&pid=339589

Have a close inspection of the fireclay pipe to make sure there is no hairline cracks. If there is u are wasting your time cementing it. U would need to cut out the broken section.

Well if i cast my mind back to Plumbing Apprenticeship at college , a shelf above a radiator was recommended to deflect the heat into the center of room rather than rising straight up and then dropping.....think about it....it is sound logic.

Sounds like u may have a wiring fault somewhere because u should definately be able to have hot waterand heating at the same time. If unsure about the wiring i would advise an electrician.

Being in a recess will make no difference whatsoever. It is just like fitting a shelf above a radiator , which actually deflects the heat inwards to the room rather than straight up to the ceiling. Insulated foil will help deflect the heat , but to be honest it may just be aa case of undersized...

Im afraid to say that if no water is dripping from pressure relief valve you are gonna have to lift those carpets.

I'm not aware of any 'reset button' on a Compact HE. To reset it u turn the main dial to zero, then back to hot water/heating.

have to say , ive fitted a few of the centerbrand ones and had no problem with them

there is no risk moving it all the way accross.. once u move it accross u can lock it in position by pushing it up into the cut out groove. this means ur heating will be on constantly though.