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Agreed, short of taking the window out, the only way I think I can improve on it is to fix a batten onto the horizontal timber, but stepped down. Then profile the flashing to the shape of the step, thereby creating a sort of tray.

Thanks, the lead flashing overlaps more than it did previously. I've done the battens the same as the original 1930's except the old ones were thinner and wider. Having looked at many in my neighbourhood, it's seems that's the way they have all been done Here's a quick sketch

Wish I'd have thought of that :confused: but the original tiles weren't laid out with an eaves row at the top, and it lasted okay, got my fingers crossed for the winter now hehe at least future bay DIY'ers will get the benefit :D

I can't remember the brand. Good to know, thanks for the clarification

I did, I used a sliding mitre saw with a diamond blade on it

I spoke with tech support for one of the leading manufacturers of breathable membranes for roofing, and he said counter battening was necessary, and to my memory said something about them expanding, I can't really remember now as it was a while ago. It's very possible that I misunderstood what...

I went with Rosemary Clay Plain tiles, not double cambered, the wife just insisted that she wanted those ones, I am happy with them. I'll post a picture of the end result in a few days when I get a chance to take a photo. I did think about it, but the breathable membranes I looked into, need...

The blue battens were from Wickes, and the others from my local roofing company. If you look at the third batten from the top, on the left of the image, you can see what I meant about reinforcing the wood on the kerfed side, at a weak point, time will tell if it's robust enough to last as long...

I'll try and post some photos tomorrow. I tried a few different suppliers for the battens, they do vary have a look at this link https://www.marley.co.uk/blog/guide-to-specifying-roofing-battens Where a batten had an obvious weak point, I kerfed it, then clamped on the weak point and glued a...

Double cambered? I'm interested in others knowledge on tiling a curved bay, are double cambered tiles better for fitting to convex curves? Seems to me they should be. before posting I had a quick look and found this: "· Creating curves – I get asked a lot about how we created the curved roof...

I'm going to do a full post on the process next weekend, with photos. I used 25mm battens, better to buy fully graded, a bit more expensive though. I kerfed the battens at 35mm, at 12mm depth. I then poured boiling water on them, which helped a little bit, then I bent them around the brick...

The first picture is just one I pulled from the internet, the second picture more accurately represents what the bay was like, but with ninety-year-old tiles before I tore them down to insulate and retile.

The battens I took off were single length and curved all the way around, I've seen some identical bays that have been retiled nearby, and the finish is not as good as the original, specifically, tiles jutting out at angles, presumably where straight sections of batten meet. Even though the bay...

I think the original battens were beech, 1/2" by 2"

I'll definitely consider that, the photo was from the right-hand side, so only three sections of a five section bay are showing. The bay was previously tiled to a curve, as are all the bays on my street, I imagine that straight batten sections will mean that the bay would no longer be tiled on a...

Thanks, so the sarking boards could be fixed onto the timber frame and then the tiles nailed to the sarking boards, are they quite flexible?

Bay by wingit posted 1 Apr 2020 at 4:19 PM