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I've pretty much got my kitchen units in place now, next up are getting the granite worktops installed and a gas safe person in to plumb in the double built under gas cooker and hob. If I get the worktops done first can the gas installer, usually, easily fit everything in place after? The old...

Thanks, so the two timbers would each run from the wall to the front of the cooker, i.e. supporting the brackets each side, what sort of width timber do you reckon?

I found another thread on this forum, which has helped me with the question I asked above, it looks like I can just put the DW on a floor panel and fix the side panel to it, then attach the brackets :) Stevethetiler said: For those who read this and have a similar problem...

Thanks for that, but I'm concerned that heat from the base of the cooker might not radiate away sufficiently. I'll have a look at the installation manual and see if it says anything about the base needing to remain uncovered.

I would be nervous about attaching any legs in case I compromised the cooker in any way, I'm not much of a metal worker either.

So, I have fitted a cabinet ready to receive our nice new cooker when I realised we ordered a built-under and not built-in double gas cooker, which does not have legs to stand on. Having read that the brackets are fitted on either side for the oven to sit on, I am now not sure the best way to...

ah yes, I see, thanks, I might just go with that option as I won't need such heavy duty fixings.

Thanks for the reply foxhole, I've got legacy pipework (gas and water, both not chased in) that is way too much hassle to move, it's just where the missus insists the washing machine goes, so the WM sets the distance from the wall. :roll:

Due to building regs I've installed 50mm waste pipe in the kitchen and because of other factors the kitchen cabinets need to be moved away from the wall by 10cm to accommodate all the stuff behind. So, I plan to fix a frame of some sort or battens to fix the cabinets to, but would like advice...

yep, but it's good to get confirmation, thanks :D

Update for anyone asking the same question in the future. I called up a company that produces a product called Broadfix packers and asked them if their packers could be cut to width for double glazing unts, they said yes, so I'll be using them. Maybe it sounds like a silly question, but you...

I've had a double glazing unit made up to replace the standard glass in my timber back door. The unit is 16mm thickness in total. I understand that packers should be the same width as the unit is thick, or a couple of mm wider, any wider than that and it becomes difficult to get the glass bead...

Gulp, bottle gone. I'll post you the fitting when I'm done if you're a collector of such oddities.

I turned off the power at the consumer unit. Opened up the junction box, the earth wire in the grey cable seems to connected to earth in the JB. I put the multimeter in continuity mode, and located one probe on the blue cable junction, I located the other probe on the earth cable seen...

OK, got it thanks. here's the front of it

I will ensure earth continuity. Is it easy to visually check that the neutral is switched? or do I need to get my multimeter out and remind myself how to use it?

[/url] I think I understand now: The existing light is still wired in place, I've taking a photo of how it's wired up. Grey cable coming from junction box, white cable to a small door activated stitch. Does this have a neutral?

'tis abundantly clear now