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The G2 requires an IP module which is placed inside the panel and connects to the data bus. You'll pay around £35 for the G2-12 panel, £35 for the keypad and £49 for the IP module. You need to connect to the selfmon IP platform to get line path checking SMS/Email etc. If you add in a low...

GSM integration is likely to be expensive across the vendors. Typically around £200 for the module alone. I install G2-12 with IP comm's and the option of a cheap GSM dialler connected to the bell trigger as a backup. This gives all the event information via SMS/Email within a couple of...

Yes, it's only V1.1 that appears to be wrong. V1.0 and V2.X are fine. Please refer to the latest manuals and not outdated ones.

More likely an error with the document where they've added the G3 push set diagram in the G2 V1.1 document release. I've tested the latest V1.55 release and it requires the push to set to be NC.

An old manual? I have V2.1 Although V1.0 also shows the same NC for push set. I don't have V1.1 to compare with.

The first link didn't work for me, but I think you listed a Flex. I would recommend that you step up to a Galaxy Dimension over the Flex. The Flex isn't as good as the Dimension. The G2-12 is the cheapest. There are also G2-20 and G2-44 versions that support more zones than 12, but are more...

Keep the intruder and cctv separate. You can link together if required. A Honeywell hybrid panel like the g2-12 with an RF portal and IP module will probably be your cheapest solution with quality equipment. The portal will enable an RF dual tec sensor to be placed in the garage. The IP module...

The G2 only supports NC on the push set. Get someone to keep the button depressed, set the system and ask them to let go. You will see that it will work. It's pretty clear about this in the manual: "Wiring Push-Set Buttons Zones programmed as Push-Set (terminator) buttons are closed going...

The virtual keypad is basically the same as having the physical keypad, but on your phone/PC etc. You can use it to set/unset, but still need at least one keypad as a fallback for cases where you don't have your phone. Eg. In the morning when you go downstairs. I normally use mine for setting at...

So, on to equipment now... You've opted for 4 keypads - for the decent systems like the Honeywell Galaxy, these are expensive items. If you could have kept it to 3 keypads, then you could have used the G2 series and also allowed for a virtual keypad. But G2 only allows 4 keypads and virtual...

Which Galaxy do you have ? From the label on the metal control panel enclosure - not the keypad.

The wiring all depends on the house. We cannot see from the plans, but it may be that the perimeter of the ground floor is easily accessible from the first floor. If that's the case, then accessing the locations is fine. If not, then getting wires in neatly without ripping the upper floors...

I wouldn't add so many keypads. Just keep a simple entry route. Have the main internal one and perhaps another for the garage. You can even setup the garage as a separate group with its own timed entry sensor and keypad.

Personally, I would place a sensor in the bottom hall and add protection to the kitchen and utility if they are at the back of the house - you want to detect as soon as possible. It currently looks like you only detect when an intruder gets to the family room. If possible, a door contact on...

Really just for future use if you ever decide to expand the system in any way. It's usually quite difficult to get wires from top to bottom when the mid floor is in and the plaster is on.

The hall PIR can be programmed as exit/entry in day mode which means that as long as the door is triggered first, you are allowed to walk past the hall sensor to get to the keypad. If you came through the window then the alarm would be instant. In night mode, the hall PIR would be programmed as...

Pop in a Galaxy G2 panel with low cost Ethernet. Wire as suggested, but contacts on front and back doors (fitted at the top non hinge side out of the way) and PIR's everywhere else. You can have a keyprox keypad at the front and one at the back. You can also have remote control over IP and low...

I've done this previously by modifying a Honeywell DC800M, but most decent wireless alarm sensors or TX RX pairs would suit. Place the sensor in watertight enclosure and connect it to a heavy duty roller door contact with the heavy duty magnet fitted to the gate.

You need to enter engineering mode with the engineer code and set the zone to spare. If you don't have the code, then all you can really do (if physically possible) is glue the magnetic part of the contact to the reed switch side of the sensor. If you don't have the code, then you risk getting...

Okay, the circuit is open somewhere. Could be a bad connection in the sensor or the cable damaged somewhere. Unfortunately, you will not get much change from £100 to get an engineer in.