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terminal 3 permanent live terminal 4 switch live terminal 5 neutral

i am guessing you mean d.h.w plate to plate h/exch. they are normally torx screws on glow-worms and easy to chew up as i said before drilling is the only way depending on the boiler you may not have enough room at the back and may need to pull the boiler forwards model would be a help

drill the head of the screw, what boiler is it

if your expansion vessell is to small your prv will lift as the preeure cant be accommodated by the vessell from what you describe 12 litres should be adequate

vaillant have been doing tero-fit on boilers in my area if boiler is in warranty or on insurance they have also been fitting a low water pressure switch kit as part of the same exercise i wopuld see if you can get these parts free as its aknown/fault.

It could be blocked d.h.w h/exch. damaged diaphram on flow sensor, lack of gas or faulty thermistor i would be tempted to go for h/exch.

the p.r.v can be cleaned but is best to replace if you go for the cleaning option remove the prv unscrew the head clean the brass seating and wash out the rubber seal becareful not to lose the spring assy. this problem is probably not related unless the system has been refilled with untreated...

F14 =blocked d.hw h/exch system not been properly installed get him back to clean system and see if glow-worm will change the part for you .they may not as it is an installation fault.

possibly pcb/ign. lead not rectifying or insufficient gas pressure maybe bad earth

your welcome glad to be of help thanx for the feedback

Probably the flow rate specially this time of year you will get about 35deg rise on incoming supply at say 9 litres a min guessing 42-45degs which is lukewarm especially when filling a bath you will find the sink/basin will be hotter as the flow is less two options replace boiler for a 30kw or...

boiler model ?

The boiler model would be helpful

sounds like the knob has moved out of synch leave it to an experienced engineer the boiler should not work in the 0 position

I would be inclined to go for the stat you can check this with clip on pipe therm. and see what the temp. is doing it should cut out at about 82degs plus or minus 3degs the o/heat kicks in around 95degs any engineer s/be able to diagnose this for you

The boiler is basically a glow-worm ultimate it should have a pump o/run if this is not working it is usually the pcb it could be the stat out of calibration call glow-worm they do a fixed fee repair and are based in derbyshire

to adjust the temp. on the pcb there are 4 potentiometers adjust pot number 2 you should have a black plastic adjusting tool clipped to the back of the pcb cover. i adjust by running boiler up to temp and decrease until 72degs reached confirm this by clipping therm. to flow/return pipe.The other...

check the flow it should be set at 72 degs to stop it knocking out on over/heat you can set it on the pcb usually cuires fault your describing

fill a glass let it settle if its air it will clear in a minute

Where did you hear that i changed one before xmas boiler parts are available but might not be economical to replace