Search results

I'd use battens of a thickness to come flush with the surface of the surrounding plasterboard, or just below. After you've fixed the cupboard and made good around the edges, it would look as if you'd fitted the cupboard to the surface of the plasterboard.

My suggestion is that you consider cutting out the plasterboard in the area to be covered by the cupboard, and either fixing directly to the wall behind or, more likely, fixing battens to the wall then fixing the cupboard to that.

I'm a bit puzzled to hear that the square under the head will spin in the slot, if one dimension is 8mm. Could you use a hex-headed bolt instead, with a suitable washer underneath so that it seats reasonably well? I've done this with my mower; after the original fittings vibrated loose and...

Robo cop

For an example of a code of practice for hours of work for noisy building work, see this.

If that's what the landlord says, then the only thing your son can do as far as I can see is to secure any valuables inside the room as best he can, or take them with him when he goes out. Travel goods companies often sell things for helping with security in foreign hotels, and this may give...

Thanks. I've managed to get it approximately 500mm away from the light, and still far enough from the wall to meet that requirement.

Baron Sugar of Clapton is threatening to sue Quentin Letts of the Daily Mail for alleging that he is a 'telly peer' who doesn't seem to have an enormous intellect. See this. It seems that though Sralan has made a good living out of bullying other people, he can't handle a bit of mild abuse...

It may be that you simply need to install one or more additional brackets to support the gutter without cutting it, if what is happening is that it sags under the weight of the water. Installing an additional downpipe would mean providing somewhere for the water to drain to, such as a...

7.00 am is too early, and 11.00 pm is far too late. Noisy work will affect a lot of people in the immediate area, not just the one neighbour. I think most people feel better about noise when they know a) it's justified and b) it will stop when the work's finished. If you can reach an amicable...

I find the most effective way to separate joints is to use a side-lever separator, which gives you mechanical advantage and avoids the risk of damage that comes from flailing around with a hammer. As Burnerman says, you can get them from Laser Tools, who do a very useful range, also from such...

At a guess: if it's a Victorian house, not very far down at all. You would have to do a trial excavation to find out.

Assuming you have the freehold, or permission to do the work, you will need to lift all the boards and fit high-density acoustic insulation, which doesn't come cheap; you need also to make sure that any gaps are sealed, otherwise sound will be transmitted through the air. (Fitting insulation...

I'm fitting a (mains powered) ionisation smoke alarm on my landing ceiling; the instructions specify the minimum distance from the walls (300mm) and add that the alarm shouldn't be mounted close to a fluorescent fitting, because of the chance of interference. But they don't specify any distance...

"Hewers of wood and drawers of water." A well-known phrase, originally from Joshua 9:23

Fein make excellent dust extractors. The power take off is very useful. You do, though, have to buy bags for them (they are a key part of the filtration system).

Hewer.

West Systems products are available from Axminster.

With that depth, you could have the makings of a cellar; it sounds as if you have a great opportunity to investigate whether you could excavate a bit more to get enough headroom to stand up, depending on what is safe in terms of the house foundations. With, say, a fixed ladder and a trapdoor...