Search results

Are you getting water into the DW? Then check if water is getting pumped to the spray arms - best way is to remove spray arms, "fool " the door lock by flipping the latch in the door with a screw driver, then with door open run a programme. If pump is shot, you won't get much water coming out of...

DOH! I meant Conduit- so I take it PVCu conduit is OK? (note to self - don't think of one thing and type another!!)

Surely with the use of suitable sealants at joints keeping water out would be no different to steel conduit? Obviously care needs to be taken at exit points etc (downward exits etc) - but still has to be better than no protection at all? (And is a damn sight easier to work with!) Anyway thanks...

Just a question about Conduit etc - what's position regarding UPVC trunking & T&E outside? Just seems the obvious cheaper, easier option than the steel stuff and should offer mechanical and Uv protection?

I thought Immersions were supposed to be wired on their own radial circuits and not onto the ring main? Not that I think that would make any difference to how long the element lasted - though I suppose if there was a significant voltage drop the element ends up being on longer to warm the water up?

Seeing as you might want to put one or 2 heaters in there it sounds like abit of a LASH UP! Not an expert, but would have thought best practice would have been to make it an extension of the ring - though of course doing it the way he has probably avoids any of those nasty Part P complications!

HDRW - what a tale of woe! This won't help - but I did much the same. Rang Powergen who gave me the contact number of the REC - which turned out to be "Central Networks". So I phoned them - got them to send me the paperwork - filled it in , sent it to - guess who - yup, Siemens, who turned up a...

Your best bet is to contact Powergen - chances are they won't be the one's in charge of the cables! BUT, they may have an arrangement with the REC to do the work. If nothing else, they'll be able to give you the right number to contact to organis getting the work done. I contacted them and they...

Because they can fit an isolator after the meter - then there IS NO NEED to pull a fuse to do electricals - so if a fuse has been pulled and seal broken they can "prove" theft of electricity!

If you're asking, should you be doing it as this would be under Part P? However, you won't require much current for an extractor and gas hob ignition - probably less than 3A each so fused spurs fom the ring should be Ok.

Yeah,but no, but yeah but no! Fing is, you ring up the REC and ask THEM to fit an isolator! Tha way, you don't need to do it yourself! And most of them will do it for free or a very nominal charge. Much safer all round, everyone is happy, no-one gets fried!

That would be an "engineer" then! Good advice though - get 'em to sit down and actually watch the machine! Don't expect them to fix it though. Even when given a complete breakdown of fault conditions and concluding that a problem we had was with either a heating element or a thermostat the...

You might find that the REC will charge to pull and refit service fuse, but if you say that you want an isolator fitted for ease and safety of carrying out electrical work and upgrading to CU etc, they'll come and do that for free! Certainly eastmidland/central networks do. It's worth asking...

Where is it leaking from? The drain hose, the door, underneath? It's possible that your rinse aid setting may be too high or your rinse aid dispenser is not working properly. Try turning the dosing down to minimum and seeing what happens. Also make sure you're not putting too much detergent...

First thing to do is remove the tray and clean it - including taking the conditioner syphon out and cleaning out the tube. Conditioner lets some lovely gunk grow which clogs everything up and blocks the syphon. Best bet is to stick tray in the dw if you have one! That will probably cure the...

If the door won't close that's your problem! There is an interlock in the door lock that means the programme wont start until the door is shut - spray arms, hot water and open doors make a hell of a mess! To check, open door, look in the lock slot on door and see if the catch is open or shut...

Depends on the model. Most Condensers have the option of draining to waste OR collecting in a container "onboard" for disposal at the end of the programme. However, Bosch do have a model that is not fitted with a reservoir but is intended to drain direct to waste - this is probably the one you...

I guess it's because even if everything is "ON" it's unlikely that everything will be drawing power at the same time - ie the elements switch on and off as the various thermostats operate. But I still reckion it would be better to allow for the worst case scenario and be guided by the rating...

1: Are you sure it's not spinning - easycare etc have lower spin speeds so loads will feel wetter. 2: Check that the "rinse hold " hasn't been selected - this normally works on easy care etc to stop it spinning. 3: Check that no-one has fiddled with the spin controller!!

What temperature programme are you using? Not unusual for the door to get hot on 60 and 90 progs. Make sure you're not putting too much powder in too - could be cause of bubbles left at end of prog.