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Yeah you would think that if just replacing but I put them in so know it wasn't like that. Pain in the arse woodgrain, in fact most UPVc doors. Swell in the sun, shrink in the cold, drop anytime they feel like it, I've gone right off them. Timber front door for me, my back door was a cheap...

Is that possible? I like the idea of continuing the cavity, just need a decent pier built and tied in, can be solid, but dont close the cavity now, no point, theres enough length on the return for bearing.

Arr but that cos you 'fix' the meters init.... :D Sorry op, yup batten out, insulate and plasterboard will save a bit, I would if weight is an issue, just use Jablite on the roof, what ever the joists (depth) are then a 25mm board over the top, nice and bright too!

Wat ave u sad? :D Yes mate, single skin fine as long as no greater run than 1.8 metres/6 foot (you'll need a pier) and batten, insulation and plasterboard, jobs a gudden.

Bricks are great for hardcore as long as you break them up to approx 2" sized pieces and compact with a plate compactor then type one over, say 100mm of brick and 50 mm type one then the sharp/grit sand at 50mm as a bedding, all well compacted. Avoid the plaster if its the gypsum based stuff...

Mini Clipper Nice and easy, set the angle and every cuts the same..

Sure you can use Linseed Oil too? IIRC Was on cleaning duties one day and the site agent asked me if I was using Linseed Oil on the staffs, Yeah I replied as I keep brushing on the Disclean....

This should do it Direct link to the Teenage buzzer that us old codgers can't hear, enjoy!

And can get so hot that the butyl round the sealed unit can liquefy and allow doors to drop, had a few probs likes this. One pane had 'slipped past the other by 5 mm :shock: Wouldn't recommend mahogany foil in direct sun light now.

Are you saying I wear a bowler hat am slightly plump and and look oriental?

I price privates on 500 a day :oops:

I personally think new work should be toothed in so that would answer your question, but why ask me? Your a brickie too aintcha? I would also lay a modern dpc and then put a slate course thru as well to match in. But thats just me..... :roll:

What sort of prices you/he getting to have to lay that many a day? Even on a small price, lets say £400 a thou thats some serious dollar for a weeks work. I'm on day rate but not housing, flat conversions, because I do other bits, cut and pitch roofs, fit windows, cover roofs, plastering etc...

Are we talking Ryarsh silica bricks or actual concrete bricks?

Arr, the magical 1000 bricks a day discussion. Yes the fella that won that comp laid 770 bricks in one hour (thats a comp a few years ago), nine inch work, english bond, didnt have to be jointed, just good enough. Hes got land and works building his own houses everyday. (Well about 15 years...

How to influence people and attract friends... Yes he is an amateur, thats why hes here, looking for advise not a gunning. Do you post on londonbricklayers?

We have had the 'old' regional thing before... And what about the origin of 'frog' :D I would like to see class b engineers below DPC but if the fletton is approved and can be used then all well and good, makes a better job. Their (Hanson) site in Stewardby is very impressive, acres of...

Back in the day, was with a gang so we all chipped in, work dried up so we all did our own thing... I ended up with the profiles for internals and the others got the corner ones.... :roll: So cant be sure how much they were, sorry. Always in Pro builder mag.

Looking at the photo and bearing (no pun intended) in mind these are load bearing, thus needing support as works are carried out....I would have gone the whole hog and rebuilt the piers each end and made sure that there was 150mm min sitting on new padstone. All IMHO of course.

Had a set of Blakes building profiles for internal corners and gables, managed to lay and cut over 500 bricks in a gable and back up the blocks in a day with them. So easy.