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In which case I'd ask brother-in-law :D

Houses built in or before the 60s didn't have an earth on the lighting circuit. In which case you have to use Class II fittings, and the if the back boxes for the switches are metal you are supposed to use nylon screws.

First thing to do is to unplug everything that's on that circuit. Don't just switch off. Then try switching the circuit back on and see if it trips. If it trips you have a problem with the wiring somewhere. If it doesn't trip start to plug appliances in one by one and see if any cause it to...

What sort of socket are you refering to? A typical 13A socket doesn't have charger pins, and if broken need replacing.

They can go on a lighting circuit or on their own dedicated circuit. Why do you ask?

As long as you are only connecting appliances to existing sockets or FCUs, you don't need approval from anywhere else.

As long as the ratings were correct before, then you you don't need LABC approval.

Yes, you have to inform the LABC at least 48 hours before you commence the work.

Would this site be better for you. It is a forum for Triton showers?

Yes, they should be alright

There is in some countries but not here I'm afraid.

It can be soldered, but you'd need to use shrink fit sleeving of the appropriate colour to protect it.

Was it 1st April when they told you that :lol:

Have a look at these Scroll down to the IP 44 - suitable for bathroom

You'll need to be Part P registered. Get some cards made up and start shoving them through some doors. If you can get your local paper to write an article on you, that'll be free advertising for you. Let your friends and relatives know you're going self-employed and to spread the word for...

That seems a good idea :)

Good point.

Check this site for information on zones in bathrooms.

Depends on your supply, but generally no. Have a look here

AFAIK you need to be competent. It is suggested you need C&G 2391, but even if you have that with no experience you wouldn't be considered competent.