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Looks like a veiled threat to me. He seems to be suggesting that if you insist on having him come back that you may end up with a poorer rating. Due (as he suggests) to not having time control over each of your stats.

Those type of valves don't leak very often. I don't think that the problem is with the valve, but is where the valve connects to the plumbing. This is just the sort of job that would be better done by an experienced person.

Yours is the sort of system we all should strive for. Ask him to explain how TRVs would improve it. They would interfere with your system if set lowere than your room stat. Your room stat would be calling for heat that it could never get. Post his answer here and we can scrutinise it. Perhaps...

http://www.plumbingproducts.ie/cylinder-accessories-ireland/3285-willis-immersion-heater.html Would it work for you?

Google is your friend.

Most upgrades from standard to HE boilers take place after or in conjunction with insulation upgrades. New windows, extra attic insulation, etc.. That results in the existing radiators being in effect oversized and allows for lower operating temperatures. HE boilers, even when run in non...

Most likely that the power from white wire is ok, seeing as the solenoid is working. Would agree with other post that you need to prove your second control box is working. Clean transformer outputs well and check for cracks, but easier to try a replacement. You could remove the solenoid and...

No teenagers girls in the house then :0)

Thank you for reinforcing my opinion. I couldn't have illustrated it better.

I think the OP's post is long over due. There has been some appalling behaviour here on this board.

It isn't very important where you put it. Keeping it on the colder pipe is supposed to prolong the life of it. So put it in a convenient place on the return if possible. It should be correctly oriented and placed so that pressure can be periodically checked for pressure.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057084248 You might want to consider what is being written above before making your final decision. I would be cautious. It would be great if you could get a trial. I am worried about the space heating value or lack of with IR heating...

:oops: Wrong thread.

Turn on the rest of the rads without changing the pump settings and see what happens.

It is always a good idea to do so when filling, but your system may have filled properly anyway. It depends on how the plumbing was done, or if you got an airlock while filling. It may be a good idea to have a plumber look at it at this stage.

Good luck with it. Don't forget to let the thread know what the problem was and how you sorted it. That way everyone learns.

If the zone valve is for isolating the cylinder, then yes it would. Most zone valves have a manual over-ride lever on them.

Your rads would still work. It used to be possible to do it in days past. Not sure if it would be feasible nowadays.

I hope I am wrong, but it could be that while doing the other work, you allowed the cylinder fitting to twist, thus causing the internal coil in the cylinder to kink. A tip to avoid this is to fit the fittings together without any sealing and count the turns until it bottoms out. Then when...

have also had the expansion vessel checked and recharged..! When you say checked, has the air valve been pushed in to check that there inst water at the air side of the diaphragm? If air was just pumped into a leaking vessel, it may not reveal that problem. I assume that there is water...