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That's what's great about being a builder, at the end of the day jump in the van and head for your nice clean shiny dust free house, leaving the customer eating grit :lol:

What size do you need? Every builders merchants stocks pretty much every size nowadays. I hope you haven't been looking in B&Q! If you use a proprietory cavity closer you do not need vertical dpc as the reveals are not closed by block or brick.. Cavity closers are plastic so you don't need...

Providing the new shower light/fan is IP rated for that environment, take the supply from the existing light rose to the new light/fan. You'll need to add another pull switch. I assume you know how to wire up a light/fan? You didn't specify exactly what you wanted to...

No, the fcu can only take up to a 13a fuse (your microwave is nearly 16a) No, same reason You really need a dedicated 6mm supply to the oven + microwave complete with isolation switch

If you've dug down to 100mm below finished level then that's too deep for gravel, You'll have to fill with 75mm Mot Type 1 scalpings, well compacted then 25 - 30mm shingle. Shingle will get onto the road however, it picks up on the tyres and also gets in the treads so you'll get that ticking...

Yeah, it's the bit you stand on when in the room, it's called the floor!

Quarry tiles can be very slippery, especially on frosty mornings, by all means use some type of slabbing but maybe something with a texture to it?

30mm sag may not notice when it's all plastered. However, for the plasterer to apply bonding to try and flatten this sag should only cost about £150 (maximum) extra over just skimming. What has he quoted you for this?

All the cellotex I've ever used has foil on both sides. Make sure you are using the right cellotex, they make dozens of different types, all for different purposes. One point about your insulation, it is good practice to use 70mm between the joists and then 25mm under the joists (covering...

The inner leaf can be built on the screed but the edge of the screed (where it projects past the blocks into the cavity) should be cut back flush with the back of these new blocks. This give you a continuation of the cavity below dpc. This cavity should be minimum 2 courses of bricks deep...

Yes, there is no limit to the number of switches. All you have to do is use '2 way switches' for the first and last switch and an 'intermediate switch' as the middle one. These are joined by 3c+e cable.

It all depends what tiles you want to use, some tiles can go a shallow as 15 degrees whereas others need minimum 35 degrees. Surely you have to match the house for tiles type and roof pitch? Don't you have planning permission as this would show the pitch the council have approved.

This should work ok assuming the original red (to c of first switch) is hard live and the other red (from c of second switch) goes to the switched live side of the rose. It's an unusual way of doing it though, usually the hard and switched live go to one switch only, the switches being linked...

Well I do agree, we seem to be creating new regulations every day. I think the reason for the permanent air vents is to overcome the issue of houses becoming more airtight as we all fit upvc windows with weatherstripping and draught proof letterboxes etc. Good 'old' houses were draughty...

or painting

seeing as you've got penetrating damp, a rotten door frame and crumbly brickwork, this is outside the scope of anyone with no knowledge of how things work (as you say "I don't know where to begin") My advice is get a professional in. Any bodged repairs will only make matters worse and...

DFE fires (as they are known) need a Class 1 flue just the same as a coal or log burning open fire. Room ventilation is critical too, you'll need permanent air vents to comply with current regs. We recently built such a chimney and flue for a customer, the regs required TWO 9"x9" air...

adding a bit of opc to bonding is standard practice when you need to top coat immediately. Goes off like granite! NVQ2 doesn't have to earn a living does it!

Don't use 'Bonding' as this is designed for low suction backgrounds and if used on Thermalites will crack and craze like mad. To plaster straight on to Thermalites you can use sand/cement as the base coat or Thistle Hardwall Plaster. Both will need a top coat of Thistle MultiFinish plaster...

The 100mm sphere rule applies to every part of the staircase. It's to stop small children getting their head stuck (it HAS happened!)