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With a TT supply, you will need an RCD tester too.....................

A 'timer' fan needs an additional live feed to work properly. I'm assuming your fan is wired into your light? The 'standard' fan will just have switched live and hard neutral coming from the light 'rose' whereas the 'timer' fan will need a hard live from the rose too. When you switch off...

........and if you really want to kill yourself, fit it on a 10 foot length of cable, so if ever it falls out of the ceiling mount it will land nicely in the bath water!

No, you must support UNDER the bottom course of bricks, in other words the course that is to sit on the steel is the one to support. You may find that some bricks will still fall away from the underside of the supported opening (between the Strongboys), wear a hard hat and be aware of the...

Jeez, if the HSE got involved they's ask to see the driver's "Method Statement Document" and "Risk Assement Document" plus they'd ask "Who is your qualified Banksman?" and "We need to see your Lifting On The Edge Of A Drop Insurance" :lol: :roll:

I have the DeWalt 708 saw and the DeWalt stand to go with it, these are an excellent combination, I use them for cutting roofs and the accuracy you get makes the job enjoyable (ish!). http://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/webcat/details.asp?ProductCode=DE7023&ID=816 I also have the DeWalt router...

The only GUARANTEED way to establish if a wall has a foundation is to dig a test hole. Now that we know that the steel being totally enclosed within the joist space, how are you going to prop the wall above? (regardless of whether using needles or Strongboys). You will have to prop it...

It will have to be custom made of course. Try these people, they make grp guttering, curved to any radius. http://www.mipltd.co.uk/index.html

You have a mountian to climb to get an old single skin extension to comply with modern Building Regs to create a habitable room. It may be cheaper to knock it down and start again. Speak to you local Building Control for advice, alternatively get an architect (or equivalent) to visit the...

Padstones will have been designed by whoever did the steelwork calculation. If an inner wall is being used as support, how do you know this has a foundation? It may just be a block partition built off the slab? Lifting the steel into place is more than just having a load of guys round for...

The felt around the edges should be cut and folded prior to any 'jollop' being applied. Let the felt hang over the side of the roof and staple the edge to the drip timber. The felt must be stapled level (or at a slope that you intend). Then apply the jollop to the inside edge of the felt over...

Do you mean single skinned, as in NON cavity?

......................and short circuit protection!!

depends on 'how accurate' the cut needs to be. For 'near enough' stuff we precut with a 5" (125mm!!) angle grinder and this forms a very visible 'line' for the Big Daddy to follow. However if the cut is critical then I would try and use a timber guide of some sort. One difficulty with the...

Before you do anything, have you had a design on the steelwork or are you just going to 'bung in an rsj'? (i.e. have you got Building Regs approval for this?) What is the steel going to sit on at the ends? You'll need minimum of 3 acrows and 3 Strongboys for a 3m opening. Support the...

If your cu is 'full' you will need a dedicated cu and rcd for the shower. Take supply from existing meter tails using a Henly and same size tails. If you're fitting a higher wattage shower it's not only the fuse/mcb that needs upgrading, the cable may need replacing too. You may need a...

What a load of tosh! If you can't see the normal rear lights of a vehicle up the road without smacking into him then you're driving too fast. Rear fogs just glare. In the rain this glare diffuses all over your windscreen. With all this glare you will never see any brake lights. If you...

tarmac has a short life, in 5 years you'll be doing it again. I have a block paved drive, been down for about 17 years now, still every bit as good as new.

We own an Arbortech 160 and it is excellent for cutting everything except brick. It will cut bricks, but it becomes too slow and tooth wear will be excessive. What we do is use a 350mm (14") diamond bladed angle grinder for the brickwork and the Arbortech on the blockwork. btw, there is...

A screed IS a concrete floor! It's just done in a different way to get a flatter surface. A screed is much drier than 'concrete' when laid so is easier to get a flat finish, without any trowel marks, and it uses a sharp sand rather than 'ballast' as the aggregate, so it is 'finer'. The...