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I always fit a soil pipe as close to the finished plaster of the wall as is practical behind the wc. That way, no matter what wc pan you get, it can be made to fit. But this builder has put it in the wrong place.

So where's Doris gone?

Opening out doors are BETTER for fire escape if you think about it. Have you never noticed 'proper' fire escapes, they have 'panic-bars' to open them and they ALWAYS open out. But that's not a problem anyway, your problem will be that the rain may get in. The door has been designed to open...

Only just found this thread! I use the Trend lock jig. It paid for itself after just the second door I reckon. However I do have separate routers all set up for each function rather than changing depths and cutters etc. What I like is the fact that you can't do a bad job with these jigs...

Try not to bury any electrical cables with the insulation, try to keep them clear, at worst on TOP of the insulation rather than buried. Similarly any inset light poking through should be left uncovered to let the heat out or you'll be buying replacement bulbs every week!

OK, if you're in an area where the weather will affect the wall then these lintel manufacturers do recommend a dpc tray over the lintel. This is to stop wind driven rain getting onto the lintel within the cavity and dripping off the ends, causing possible dampness within the wall lower down...

It can't be ON the slate or tiles can it? It must be UNDER them? Get a grip and send a piccy :lol:

but if the toilet pan is filling up but the cistern is not then this indicates that the innards are not correctly seated in the cistern, allowing water to simply run into the pan all the time. Is that what's happening? If so, you have to turn off the water at the isolator on the pipe into...

Well I've got 2 girls (13 and 10) + wifey of course. The main thing I first noticed was that I had to upgrade the hot water cylinder from a single 36 x 18 to TWO 48 x 18 linked together with motorised valves and all manner of stuff! Then we needed 3 bar pumps to the showers. Oh, and we now...

If you can get a mechanical fix into the blockwork then do so (i.e. galvanised clout nails) but often this is not possible if the blocks are not suitable for nailing into. What we have to do sometimes is glue the cavity closers into position using Gripfill or the equivalent. (NOT SILICONE)...

yeah, perhaps they meant "wailing schedule" :lol:

But Planning Authorities have no interest in HOW it's done, just what it will look like. Perhaps this was a request from 'Building Control'? If it's for regs, then it may be to do with hangers and trimmers (where one timber is supported by another by butting up and fixing)

You use 'cavity closers'. Get these from a good builders merchants. They come in various widths to suit different cavities, usual sizes are 50mm, 60mm, 75mm and 100mm. Most common size for houses over 5 years old is 50mm or 60mm. Just measure your cavity at its narrowest point and that's...

I would pva the hole first and add some pva to the mortar mix. It will never come out then. I'd wait several days before drilling and fixing though, green mortar is very weak and next day is too soon to expect this to be strong enough.

TexMex, at last, someone here who knows how it's done!! These DIY guys just won't listen though. They're determined to invent some silly system which is doomed from the outset. They just don't know enough about the techniques to know that they're talking rubbish with this 'ball' system...

I'd come off the back of the single socket.

not really after Jan 1st 2005. Part P comes into play and all work must be inspected. This rather spoils a lot of things. You could either go the illegal route and ignore the new rules or separately employ another registered sparks to inspect your work. (expensive and inconvenient) To...

A radial circuit on 2.5 cable should only serve 50 sq m of floor area. I hope that's what you have! (i.e. a very small house?) It should also have a 20 amp fuse/mcb. There are no restrictions on the number of sockets on this circuit however.

I would tap into the existing ring main (assuming it IS a ring main?) Alternatively come out of the CU with a new cable direct to the new socket. Cable size depending on length.

LV = 1000 volts or less ELV = 50 volts or less (ac) SELV = Separated ELV PELV = Protective ELV