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does anyone have an opinion on this stupid rule?

The regs DO require it to be earthed. 522-06-06

Well according to the latest CITB study notes for the IEE 16th Edition Regs this is allowed. See a scan of the page....... See paragraph 2

You go straight for full planning.

Unbelievably the regs also allow you to have a socket within 300mm (one foot) from the kitchen sink! Just close enough for you to fill the kettle without unplugging it. Just close enough to get well splashed when washing up. Just close enough for the plugged in kettle to fall in a sink...

I can't quite work out what you've got and what you'll end up with.... As I see it you have an old hob and oven as one combined appliance? You want to have a new hob + a new single oven + another new single oven, i.e. 3 new appliances? Am I right so far?

The difference is in the UV protection (ultra violet). The brown pipe is not UV protected so can only be used underground whereas the grey is UV protected so can be used above ground. To use grey below ground is perfectly ok, it's just an expensive way of doing it if you're buying the pipe...

If you try and use a ball on the edge of a frogged brick, it will show on the joint, especially when rubbed up. I'm not miffed at all, but when you know that an idea just cannot work then surely it is better to try something else rather than plough money and time into a pointless exercise...

You will need planning permission if you're going to add a window, or in fact anything that changes the external appearance (even a Velux window). You will also need Building regs approval and they will want to know the following: Floor joists and possible steelwork, thermal insulation...

I don't want to be a party pooper but this idea is nonsense! I have been bricklaying since the 1970's and I have never come across bricks of a tolerance that would allow this idea to work. The initial skills of bricklaying start long before a brick is laid. 1) You have to get the mortar...

Yesterday I ordered a Fluke (Robin) 1652, should get it by the end of the week, I'll let you know what it's like.....................

Driller, thanks for finding that info about the April completion date. I have read that paragraph (B.10 (b)) and to be honest it is not easy to understand. (typical Government gobbldeegook :? ) I'm not sure that this refers to what we were talking about, i.e. if a job is started prior to...

Definately screw up into the joists. With a decent cordless screwdriver that will be an easy job. Use 5 x 100 size screws, Pozi 2 bit and you're away.

It doesn't matter, you can use either. One wire into the common and the other wire into either line 1 or line 2.

This is all the info I found: (transitional info from page 8, with flow charts on pages 11,12 and 13) http://www.odpm.gov.uk/stellent/groups/odpm_buildreg/documents/page/odpm_breg_030323.pdf There is a legal definition of "commenced" but it is aimed more at building work rather than just...

It's perfectly ok to use a 2 way switch in a 1 way application.

I thought the Part L regs required room stats and cylinder stats now.

I've just discovered the 'transitional' arrangements for Part P. Work commenced prior to Jan 1st (assuming all plans are approved) will be exempt from Part P rules. There is no mention of a 'completion date'. Where did you see it had to be completed by March??

Both methods have their advantages. Stripping out the old ceiling gets rid of the old damaged ceiling but is very messy and all that debris has to be disposed of. Cross battening is a solution, assuming you have enough ceiling height to allow for this. You could then postition the new...

If it's outside zones 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 then yes