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So long as the satin on the walls is water-based (ie. emulsion) then vinyl matt emulsion will go straight on..If the walls have been painted with oil/solvent-based paint then you'll need to rub-downd lightly to provide a key.. Vinyl matt is fine for a kitchen but if you want a very durable...

A good quality trade matt such as Dulux vinyl matt should cover that salmon satin in two coats easily.. you shouldnt need to rub down unless theres obvious imperfections on the existing finish.. If the blue is lighter than youre describing then a white emulsion basecoat before the blue coats...

I presume you're talking about the inside? In that case so long as the glass was dry Zinsser should've stuck like the proverbial to a blanket :) ... Gloss straight onto that B.I.N. undercoat should've been ideal 8)

Funny how we all have our 'favourites' Third _Eye For me best gloss is Crown.. Best V/matt colour is Dulux or Crown Leyland do the best Eggshell. I dont use soft sheen...So cant comment :)

You mean woodwork? You can paint straight over the satin after a light rub down to provide 'key' .. Paint always seems to be a very slight shade darker when applied than the colour indicated on the tin or in the book .. :wink:

mmm..Tried it once on a textured ceiling and it worked, sort of..Not so sure it would on a smooth wall/ceiling ...Youll have to mix extremely well otherwise alternate patches of silk & matt will appear :roll:

Yes, the factory finish is sprayed. With a good quality 2"brush (Hamiltons Perfection) and solvent/oil-based paint a passable 'smooth' finish can be acheived .. You could use a 4" sponge roller on the flatter areas to get an ' almost-as-good-as-spray' finish :wink:

Make sure you buy it from a trade store rather than Homebase.B&Q etc. as even top brands are diluted for DIY retail stores .. You cant go wrong with Dulux, Crowns pretty close & slightly cheaper & Crown white is better than Dulux in my opinion .. Sure you want silk? Its not as good as V.Matt 8)

..Heres another tip Lusi - Buy your paint from a trade shop if you can or if you have to buy from B&Q stick to Crown or Dulux at least theyre not qiute as thin as the B&Q 'own-brand' rubbish :wink:

As Growler says :wink:

I dont use coving adhesive (too 'sticky' - dries too quickly too!)I always stick it up with Artex, this will fill the top gap too when mixed 'stiff' ..Works every time for me :wink:

Ive painted loads of them - last one only this week , Wipe down with cellulose thinners or meths( it wont get rid of ALL the 'waxy' feel but it helps) then lightly sand for a key followed by a quick coat of Zinsser B.I.N - by 'quick' I mean that you dont need to acheive a complete 100% opaque...

I usually scrape/scratch the painted ceiling then pva it to provide key/adhesion

What was the original finish on the ceiling & did you PVA seal the ceiling before artexing? At least youve bought some decent paint now , steer clear of that B&Q *****:wink: You only need to thin the first coat by 20-30%. I artexed a ceiling 2 weeks ago , painted it 3 days later, 3...

True, it will yellow slightly...how about going for an off-white to start with? :wink:

Drying time depends on humidity/temerature..If it looks/feels dry then it probably is :wink: First (mist) coat should be thinned 20-30% . Mould will form eventually on any emulsion , just clean and touch-up when neccessary..or paint with oil-based eggshell :wink:

Best not to use 'quick drying'/water-based paint as its pretty c*** ! In any case gloss should be lightly sanded with 80-100 grit oxide paper to provide a key to painting. Following this apply two coats of oil-based Satinwood (its self undercoating) Same with the skirting - 2 coats of...

Dulux are losing the plot and getting less of my custom as their prices keep soaring ! Ive started using the Leyland or Johnstones primer too..Good stuff

mmm... I thought I was imagining the 'tackiness' ... :?

no no no.. try to cover it with plastic for now & wait til spring to paint if you must .. It shouldnt need it if youre felting though..