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And what distance are we talking over?

What size is the room? What's the difference in level over what area. Are we talking 10mm over 5m or 10mm over 50cm?

Plus the cost of converting the garage to a habital room. Find a different house that ticks the boxes to start with.

What has he se advised you do?

I guess about 660kg per m2. Your props are slightly nearer than a meter so about 500 kg per m2. I guess you got ply ontop of the timber?

The flat roof u value seems rather good for only 100mm celotex. Is that correct?

Steels put in for a storage room. What you storing up there?

Does the rear of the house also face north so no sun? Or maybe more sheltered from fresh windy air.

Is there any reason stopping me building 1 course of engineering bricks off the ground beam, then installing my block and beam flooring on top. I would obviously excavate in between the ground beam enough to give me the minimum 150mm void. My drawings show 2 courses of bricks and the infill...

Is there a cavity tray fitted?

I guess wood would have been cheaper if you had a floating floor on top of the insulation. Would save having to screed the block and beam.

Starts at 3m wide then narrows to 5.5m. Don't understand.

What's the span

I don't know the rules you are talking about but less than 6 would be 5 or less. Not 6. Also where are the 2 reception rooms you mention.I only see a kitchen/diner and 6 bedrooms. Do any other houses have such deep extensions at the rear? How longs the remaining garden?

Seems fine to me.

All OK.

Can you upload some photos of the drawings to show what was specified at the beginning.

Sorry to go off topic but interesting post as piling information doesn't come on here often. I have a few questions if you dont mind. Did they use mini piles? How deep did they need to go in the end? Whats your ground like? Do you mind mentioning cost? Steve

You should also have a 150mm upstand. Plus a ventilated upstand would add an additional min 25mm to the upstand height. And with a cold roof you would probably need some insulation below the joists. Probably less than 50 mm between a cold and warm roof thickness. Could you run a gutter along...

Are you screwing directly into the wood above or are you over boarding into existing plasterboard? What length of screws are you using? Does the screw stop turning or does it continue to turn but not tighten?