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Sure - will take and post tomorrow in the daylight...

Thanks DC77 - unfortunately, the door is a VERY tight fit in the doorframe at the moment, exacerbated by some small movement in the garage wall by all of the recent heavy and prolonged rainfall - consequently, I can't even get a crowbar blade in between the door and the frame at the moment...

Feck! That sounds like an appallingly horrible job... that would take a long, long old time to cut through the solid brass or steel of the bolt with a weeny hacksaw blade. Especially, as the blade couldn't be in the frame of the hacksaw because of the lack of gap between the door & door...

Thanks for this, when you say "bolt", you mean the part of the lock that is presently locked and keeping the door shut at present? I don't think I've got an angle grinder which is a bit of an arse ache!

Hello there Thanks for replying. It is the side door (but bloody annoying that it's blocked!), so can access both sides of it. However, I don't understand what you're suggesting to do with the blade?

I've got a problem that I've not experienced before. On an external garage door, we've got a Legge mortice lock. I do not know how many levers. The other week, the main key got stuck in the lock and I had to leave it in there whilst I worked out why I couldn't remove it. The key still...

If you accept the friend request, you can send me a PM.... Can't put my email address in an open thread!

Indeed - BTW, I tried to PM you about the spare Potterton timer that I now have. It wouldn't let me until we were "friends"! Drop me a note back if you are still interested.....

Hi to all Thanks so much for helpful replies received on this thread. It turned out that that 3-way diverter valve was the part at fault, and I initially removed the silver motor unit from it, to pop the new one on (done completely blind, as you can see in the pic it can't be twisted to be...

That's the bit I'm likely to arse up.... Don't especially want to drain the whole system by isolating the mains in - so am moving into plumber territory there!!

Yep - had four of them, and simply unwanted. They can be bought from traders for about £40 if you shop around a bit. I do hope it's not stuck solid - I was really hoping not to have to do any plumbing / piping work! I was hoping that replacing the silver head unit would be enough! Am...

New Honeywell V4073A 3 port valve en route! They were more than 80 notes in the local plumbing suppliers! £33 on Ebay. Bargain!

I know less than you do! I'm assuming from the last photo of the text on the motorised bit of the valve, that it is in the "A" version - midway diverter....

Hi Matt - thanks again for the reply... here goes: It doesn't matter which way the switches are positioned on the programmer. You can have HW on timed and CH on OFF, HW on OFF and CH on ON etc etc - the hot water and CH actually only come on at the times programmed into the EP2002! Also...

Thank you so much for bothering to help (unlike some). I think my logic is just to get a new silver box for the valve and fit it (freeing up the vlave itself whilst the box is off) - I don't think they're massively expensive? From what I can see on Ebay, a three port valve with motor etc...