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Hi Tony! My pool plant room is 50m from solar plant room. Need to either run high temperature heat store water to Bowman heat exchanger in pool plant room over 50m of 22mm poly pipe, or put the get exchanger in the solar plant room and run the cooler but chlorinated pool water in 35 or 50mm...

So how does waste pipe compare with PVC pipe? Waste pipe is described as PVC-U ?

Thanks. Would that mean normal plastic waste pipe is OK?

Hi, Does anyone out there know if black MDPE pipe is suitable for use with the high levels of chlorine found in swimming pool water?

But how can the collector sensor sense the panel temperature if it is dry? It would only be sensing the temperature of the empty pipe / fitting connected to the pipe coming out of the panel?

Thanks Dick, looks good. Most of the info seems to be outside of UK. Just one thing I fail to understand: In a drainback system, when the pump is off (so there is no fluid in the collector), how does the temperature sensor at the collector measure that the collector temperature is high enough...

No, just using a header tank instead of an expansion vessel. System will work at lower pressure when hot. Means it will 'stagnate' earlier but also safer and lower spec components. No special filling process etc. Drain back is a closed system. I'm proposing an open vented one.

Can anyone comment on the pros and cons of using an open vented primary solar circuit instead of a pressurised system (used where freezing presents no risk)? Thanks in advance..

Near Cadiz it doesn't.

Near the sea, never drops below 0. I'll think of incorporating plate HE into design..

Howdy.. I know how much you folk love a dodgy plan so here it is: I have exported two unvented cylinders to my house in SW Spain. One is a 210l indirect Oso Solarcyl with 2 coils, the other is a 300l direct Megaflo with no coils. At the moment I'm only using the OSO with the immersion for...

or very constipated.

Yes indeed...If I do that in the future I'll probably put felt on top as well!

Ok, here's a question: the roof area is about 3m x 4m - is it worth spending £200 on insulation - how many years saving on gas will it take for this to pay off in London climate??

Hmm...It's not a loft, it's an unventilated cavity between plasterboard and the boards that the felt is laid onto, which will attract condensation if there is any gap under the boards at the top of the cavity. This condensation would soak into the rockwool leading to an unsatisfactory situation?

BTW would it make sense to seal the long thin sections of hard insulation into the joists with building silicon?

Sounds like good advice, out of the myriad of discussions on the subject. Yes I did multi-thread as I wasn't sure which sections. Haven't even mentioned the plan to put in fire rated (enclosed) downlights yet! I guess I would enclose the section between joists with a couple of bits of 2 x 4...

Thanks Pinenot... only problem is - the 'flat roof' part of it is not ventilated so any moisture reaching the cavity above the rockwall will have nowhere to go but condense on the cold boards and then make the rockwall soggy!

Thanks! Would that rigid insulation need to be the full 100mm depth of the joists, to completely fill the void, or could it be, say, only 50mm with the gap then between the plasterboard and the insulation? Would it be neccesary to use foil backedplasterboard, and if so, do I join these by...

There's a lot written on this! I have a top floor bedroom with a roof above it that is in two sections - one side is pitched with felt and tiles, the other is 'flat' with boards and felt. The tiled side appears to be ventilated, the 'flat' side is unventilated and cannot be ventilated. I have...