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Don't feed the trolls.

Come on girls. To the question: the OP said the MCB had tripped as well as the RCD, so this isn't a simple cumulative leakage. The advice has got to be isolate the dishwasher now. His might not be one of the known "dangerous" batch, but the suggestion is a faulty component. It is for the OP to...

Considering that London Fire Brigade warn that FFs are the most likely pieces of equipment to cause a fire, I'd go for an RCBO. These might be useful if you're worried about an un-noticed trip: http://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/acatalog/mains_power_failure_alarm.html

Have you checked the loading on the dimmer? Sometimes there is a minimum load for the dimmer to work properly.

Sounds like a bad connection. Only way is to go through each and check for tight screws and trapped insulation.

Radials every time. Use 4mm for everything - 100m will go a long way ;-)

Also likely the fan will not work with a dimmer.

Can't help but think of Del boy and the chandelier sketch.

Do you mean that you want to plug-in the outdoor socket to the indoor socket or extend the indoor socket circuit to provide an outside socket?

We all know how easy it is to be misunderstood when trying to explain something, so maybe bits were misleading (your first diagram and the second are rather different), but it happens, don't worry. Moving on. Testing the wires at either side of the switch will not tell you that the "dead" wire...

Right. So, if the circuit is loop-in (where power goes to a rose then to the switch and via rose to lamp) the original power came down to switch two and the connection provided power to switch one. By taking away the link there is no power to switch one. However, just linking the terminals in...

What was the general opinion from the other site?

A bit of confusion. Before you started work, were there two working switches? Were these two-way switches - i.e. if you turned either one on both lights would switch on or off? Your description sounds as though this could have been the case with the added cable being a strapper. If this was the...

Don't just swop things to see if it works - it could cost a lot of money! First we need more information. How many light fittings are there? When you say one light is not working, do you mean that the one and only light in a room is not working but the light in the other room is working? Have...

May have misunderstood the thread, but I think that the OP is talking about switching rather than the electrician's idea of isolation. Should it be possible to turn off the supply to, say, a washing machine without pulling it out to reach the 13A socket? Answer is yes, but a number of ways to...

Interesting but whilst the regs state from floor, the activity is being carried out from inside the bath so maybe much higher. Does that make a difference?

This might help -http://www.arca53.dsl.pipex.com/index_files/lightlevel.htm but really once you get over 500 lux then it is a job for specific task lights (eg anglepoise) and not solely ambient lighting. Riveralt is right; at 750 lux you wouldn't need the cooker. One problem with having a big...

Wow, did your question open the floodgates! Here's another twister: Construct the pantry without insulation and vent to kitchen or a tiny fan to external. Use shelves for the 'warmer' goods. On the floor put a larger chest freezer with external thermostat to keep it at say +6 C. This way the...

Important for kitchens is that there are two levels of lighting needed - a general room lighting and a higher worktop level of illumination. Avoiding the downlight argument, but assuming they are going to be used; the positioning of the lamps needs to be such that the work areas are well...

I'd suggest doing it the opposite way around. Use a plenum system where the fan pushes air into the room at high level and it exits at the bottom. You could choose a cool place from which to pull in the air. By making the exit a little too small there will be a tiny bit of overpressure. This...