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Finally an update, I lost this forum link. The balls inside the valves were deteriorating and the arms to the balls were in bad shape too....thinning out.

Did not work. I do suspect the White Rogers somehow but need to play more and verify wires.

Yes the Micro Switch will activate the relay/pump when it swings open the valve. When I disconnect one wire (24v) the Valve will close....just wont close in sync with blower/exchanger "2nd Stage - OFF" I have changed this to ON so will need to visit the dungeon to test when time.

My setup at home... Vanee Heat Exchangers (fresh air inbound preheated by exhaust air) then to: Hot water Coils (Actual heat supply) - Sheet metal box with snake of copper pipes inside where air passes through then to air cavity in floor. 2 way 4 wire Zone Valve normally closed (without 24...

New intel.... 24,7 volts when called for heat. I noticed the Paddle indicator did move towards B, felt the pipe but no heat! I moved the indicator more towards B , just a tad and it worked. Does this indicate a bad motor or something else seizing up? Thanks

Thanks mates...looks like enough to go on. Will advise how I make out. London born (Barnet) Cheers and HNY

When the heat is turned on I no longer have resistance. I should have added that part, does it mean I have power then? Thanks

House - Heat Exchangers with 2 way Honeywell Zone Valves (about 18 years old). On one exchanger the hot water stops flowing after the specified temp is reached.....so it appears.f If I turn up the thermostat then no flow (cold pipe into exchanger). If I turn the heat off then on again...