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sound piece of advise TURN IT OFF call in a registered gas engineer cozzmic is right on the nail. faulty appliances KILL!

if you remove the glass from the sash you should be able to force the sash usually opposite way from direction of handle to open it, do not use a screw driver or you will damage the frame too small a surface area contact and will bruise the pvcu. carefully use a large surface chisel ie bolster...

a top hung is when the handle is at the bottom and the hinges either side as you push the sash open it opens from the bottom. A side hung has the hinges at the top and bottom of the sash and the handle on the side so the window opens out like a door tried to keep it simple hope this helps...

sounds like the latch return spring has broke problem now is it may fall into the workings and jam up the door gear totally usually when its locked. you could try removing the whole door espag. ( locking strip) and seeing if the case has screws to access the gearing some are riveted others...

I've looked at a website and I think I need bubble gaskets but does anyone know the difference between CORDED and NON-CORDED bubble gaskets? Many thanks!

are you testing with fan running across earth and neutral. you should be testing for resistance with power off.

on a paterned unit the glass pattern should be on the outer pain .why do you ask.? ]]]]some times when viewing k glass you can see a haze on the glass in certain sunlight due to the refraction on the coated surface.

if its for a table top you should be looking at safety glass .

your door requires toe ing and heeling (re packing)

For the type of screw you req try popping in to your local window manufacturing company they will have the correct screws and should sell you some or as we have been known to do on occasion, give you some. you may find that the sash and outer frame has reinforcing in , then you would req a...

pz 19mm screw required to for the restrictor mushroom and a 19mm or twenty five mm to the frame you may even find the shoot bolt screws are 25mm remove one and make that your max size do buy decent screws or they will rust in no time.

the only time ive come across this method is on sound insulation rather than thermal and this is usually between floors?

sounds like the mid feathers could be breaking away. the only real cure would be to fit liners of the correct type in the flues just remember that even coal fires can kill from carbon monoxide poisoning.

did a job last year and used velux type windows cant think of name but we got them from aizelwoods if you have a local builders merchant of that name all I remember is we saved 50% on velux prices. I think it was something like Key lite.

Evo stick contact adhesive or thixotropick will stick one to the other.

usually you have a lip on the out side of the frame any thing from 5mm to 10mm this is what we call the idiot lip. removable in the case the surveyor is an idiot and measures tight. other than that most doors will have reinforcing through the chamber which is approx 4 mm behind the lip. so...

see my explanation under opening window

these hinges are pre set and unajustable towards the frame as its the arrow head that pulls the sash back to the frame on the hanging side a new set of hinges will cure this, if you close the window slowly and watch what is happening to the arrow head on the hinge and see if it appears to locate...