Search results

When you say polypipe I assume you mean 15mm barrier pipe for the hot and cold feeds from the DHWC and the CWSC to the power shower? Provided all WRAS approved products then will be fine.

Sounds like you might need to cut through the pipes with a cutter/slice and then fit new tap. Either new flexi's might reach, or just extend the old pipework slightly.

That looks fine to me - and assume sticky tape is there as its a metal bath and cant screw into it!.. makes sense :) Personally id still batton out under bath as Chris R says even though its metal - just makes it a little more stable and makes sure corners dont dip down if someone were to...

Its not normal at all and sticky tape will hold nothing when you have a bath full of water! First mistake was buying from homebase (or any DIY shed for that matter) Can you post a pic of what you have received so that we can see exactly what you mean? Thanks

Unless your basin taps are mains fed, then it is likely the large tank in the loft is feeding your cold taps in the bathrooms directly, and the hot taps in the bathroom (via the cylinder - all the same water) - so a good reason not to swallow the water when cleaning your teeth or showering...

CT-1 - available on net or in most builders supply - like an extra strong silicone.... Bl**dy amazing! http://www.ct1ltd.com/ct1.html

Most kitchen taps are dual flow anyway. You might find that the ensuite taps are designed for mains pressure system hence the low flow

That is a risk - but usually absolutely fine if you use the towel to cover any area the spanners go onto the tap...

Firstly make sure you are trying to turn the valve the right way :lol: The principle is correct, there is no easy way - you might find you get a better grip with waterpump pliers

You need: 2 x Adjustable spanners 1 x Towel Put towel around the tap spout - then one set of adjustable spanners onto the spout (towel protecting the chrome finish). The use that stop the tap moving round in its hole while you trying to undo the tap valve. Be careful while doing it -...

Sounds like you have unbalanced supply throughout your house. Generally speaking most kitchen taps are designed to cope with this and mix the water once it leaves the tap, rather than mixing it in the tap body - therefore you should get hot and cold as you wish - albeit at different pressures...

Then it is just a matter of wiggling it and lifting it upwards until it comes off. Can't risk heating it with blow torch as caps are generally plastic. Generally some rocking, wiggling and upwards force should remove it (finally) There shouldn't be anything else holding it on, other than a...

VERY small straight screwdriver, press down hard and firm into the coloured plastic ring (red or blue) at one point on the top of the tap, should slide under the cap and pop it up.... be careful, its best to use a downwards pressure not an inwards pressure.

you can click on the "thanks" button by their post if you find it useful :lol:

Depending on size it might well be. You need to make sure the overflow pipe is the same diameter as the one currently in there as you will need to use the new overflow pipe due to the way it fits into the rectangular fitting at the top.

or this one: http://www.abode-shop.co.uk/overflow.asp

Something like this might work: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Caple-Chrome-Overflow-Kit-CPOF6CH-/110547422113?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_HomeGarden_Kitchen_SinksTaps_GL&hash=item19bd23cba1#ht_500wt_928 But it very much depends on the size of the drainage grill on your sink. If you can find the right part...

You are missing a small plastic rectangular part that receives the black circular part in your picture 1, and then is held up to the draining board with a small screw. There should also be a black rectangular rubber seal to go between the missing plastic part and the draining board. Without...

From what you have described it sounds as though the soil pipe goes through the wall and outside where presumably it connects to a vertical stack? If this is the case can you not run a new waste through the wall to connect into the vertical stack at the correct height. A general rough...

Sounds like either: 1) Air lock - seems unlikely if no adjustments have been made to the plumbing system during the period. 2) Blockage somewhere on the pipe from DHWC to shower - might be on filters into shower 3) Thermostatic mixing control valve needs replacing If 3) then usually...