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a slow loss might not leave any moisture you will notice, first wipe your dry hand and fingers over and around every joint & radiator valve you can get access to, touch your lips and you will find any trace of moisture there is, that includes the 15mm copper tube sticking out of the wall behind...

a ball of wire wool, everflux, tin/lead & flux. never liked lead free.

i have a reputation in electrical circles - mostly not to let me anywhere near it, but i will comment. you are stuffed, even if you were not, a lawyer is not a person to upset, they can cost you money as a hobby should they decide to. even if it takes several large whiskeys, if you have to...

he's including the health and safety course in that

maybe in cheshire, but not down here, i'd stop being so belligerant if i were you, as far as i'm aware the people you are insinuating are cowboys are far from that, and talk like that is only going to alienate people. you can't throw a brick round here without hitting an rgi, there is a...

iif you close down the trv that was replaced and the lockshield, does the noise stop? if so then it likely related to the trv, if the noise continues, then the timing may just a coincidence. does it happen when the pump isn't running? i'd try and pin the noise down accurately, maybe...

where is this noise coming from ? exactly

500 litres of coloured water? food dye might do it

hey, if you do go for a new tank, maybe leave something in the old one.... like 50/50 petrol oil for instance..............

a regular clean with a limescale remover will keep them clean, i used to use viakal after most showers. you could fit a couple of inline magnetic inhibitors like the limebeater

the jigsaw has a massive current draw - if your nicds are 1.3ah, you'll kill them. when i used it with the 1.3s i got a few minutes use - maybe 10? then they came off the saw very hot. and flat. i bought a genuine makita 3.0ah nimh from folkestone fixings (who i recommend for service and...

ditto the make up hose the drain off should be at a low point on the pipwork (a brass hose tail and a square tap you can turn on or off with a small adjustable) - maybe near a rad, or if part of the system is on pipe drops, you ought to have one there. i'd keep draining, and if the water...

so he wasn't fitted up by the CIA with swedish assistance? the conspiracy theorists won't like that. :P

the pressure vessel in the boiler will hold a fair bit of water, that's why bleeding it is slow to release the pressure. if you have a drain off point, that would be quicker.

i've done wd and gently whack. if it doesn't do the trick, then yes, a new one - for now if you can get the plunger up and get it running, at least you have heat from it.

hmmm... what about geese?

5 dabs is not ideal, it is a cheaper, quicker option, but bodge is going a little too far - it allows ants to nest, it makes it more awkward to point, the slabs are not as well supported (not so much of an issue with a quality slab), it is more likely that the slabs can move over time - as a...

have you taken the trv head off to see if the plunger is seized closed? it should move down under moderate pressure freely.

can you make it inaccessible? possibly move it to a more inconvenient location that the oil truck can still pump to? locks get broken, pipes get cut - maybe a breeze block wall around it as a physical barrier? my local water works is in the corner of a publicd car park - couple of years...

it can be a tiny amount of air that causes a blockage, have a chat with barratts and see if they can get it sorted as good will. had this recently and just slackened off the return union nut at the boiler - a little air bled out and the heat started moving within seconds - it was that...