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As I understand it, it is making a clear restriction that the OSG information (which is a cut down version of the full regs) is based on an assumed best possibly achievable Ze of 21 Ohms on a TT system. For example with the best possible earth spike conditions the resistance from there to the...

'The Wholesaler' are you per chance also known as Ian Foster which would indicate a rather clever but also naughty bit of free advertising for your 'resistor's in a box' thingy widget :?: :shock: :wink: :lol: If so by the way surely it could retail a bit cheaper for what is a plastic box...

Not so, AFAIK part p doesn't apply this far north.

Ukants - The term loop is not confusing and does refer to a radial circuit which is what he has. (As in lighting loop or 'loop in' which is radial). Cable overload IS NOT an issue as stated before as the whole circuit is fed from a 13a plug and so must be fuse protected to 13A!!

Who did the electrical work in the new extension/conservatory? They should have filled the EIC in and signed for the installation part. If after installing the person could not inspect and test, this should have then been done by someone qualified who could sign that part of the EIC. To do this...

You are hijacking a 9 month old thread. If you want to get reasonable answers you should post a new thread. Where are the moderators :?: :!:

Edit! Ignore that suggestion, get a multimeter and check what the connections are with the circuit dead.

Try here http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8463

I would suggest that the 40A MCB has been fitted next to the main isolator as it has the highest current draw and all the other MCB's shifted one place left. This then makes sense of the labels 5A lights 5A lights 15A unlabelled 32A cooker and 32A sockets.

:lol: Doesn't BAN have a picture of him

So Kendor are you going to edit your post in the 'For refernce' sticky as it is a bit confusing for people looking there for refernce material. After all that is what it is for, and not a discussion thread.

From what you have described I would suggest the following. The first problem is that the flex from the lampholder to the rose is reversed so you need to swap the brown and blue wires. This does not effect the way the lamp works but changes the look of the wiring. Now the problem with the...

You can buy pyro sheathed in white and I believe also un-sheathed. You can also buy pots which have an earth wire (single metal core which requires sleeving with green/yellow) bonded to the inside of the pot. They look very similar to the ones installed on the pictures in this thread and I...

Most old flats are wired in pyro and if you think about it it is a good choice as they normally have concrete ceilings and floors, and I would not like to do that chasing!!! Pyro is small and can be run surface as it is well protected and if installed neatly it can look Ok exposed.

Get the person who installed it back to install it properly. They may not have fitted links in the right place or if it is faulty they can remove and replace it for you.

Try here SELV fans with optional humidity controller built in?? http://www.vent-axia.com/sharing/condensation-selv.asp

Why not just jump in the Tardis and go back to 1930 then try the local electrical wholesale outlet?? :D

There shoud be three small screws on the front at the bottom and one either side at the top which hold the cover on. You have to pull the knobs off the controls and with the screws removed the cover comes forward at the bottom and can be lifted up and clear. Isolate the supply before removing...

I agree 100% with Lectrician but have found several of these heaters in the past with lead thermal fuses. They are constructed as a barrel of lead with copper wires out of each end and are fitted under the cover of the heater as suggested. When the heater over-temps usually due to being covered...

My choice would be 6mm² for the whole circuit including the 'fly lead'.