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The lights are normally wired in series called 'Loop in' wiring. If you remove a fitting and there are others downstream, then they will fail to work until you replace the one removed. It sounds like you have a very minimal understanding so proceed with great caution if re-fitting yourself!

So not so sweeping!!

Mains lamps have a power factor of 1 so VA=Watts. So 800VA = 800W in this case, and your total load would appear to be 500W, so fine. You should be made aware that dimming Halogen lamps may ruin their 'Halogen cycle' as they may not get as hot as they should. This may result in reduced life...

Honeywell t6360 1 - Red (Permanent Live) 2 - Blue (Neutral) 3 - Yellow (Switched Live) RDD10.1 Q11 - Red (Permanent Live) Q12 - Yellow (Switched Live) Blue (Neutral) must be terminated off safely as not used This is assuming the Honeywell was wired correctly. I would start by...

I have one of those led screwdriver's and it shows this behavior. It is Ok for testing continuity of fuses only. If you touch one end and hold the other on any large metallic surface, or long unterminated wire, it lights regardless of what you touch with your hand. It always lights at full...

If it were me I would wire it the standard way as breezer shows in the post from the 'for reference' on page one. The fan operates with the light and over-runs and when you want to interupt it (say at night) flick the isolator.

I thought the old neon screwdriver was the offending test gear as this will show up induced voltage due to unterminated wires. It doesn't take much current to light the neon hence you don't get much of a shock when using the rubbish things. Ground one end of the yellow to earth and it will go.

Good point yes. Proceed as before but you could use a four terminal junction box as an alternative to the rose if you so wish. It is not necessary but more common.

What type of 'tester' are you using??

All sounds very nice but why not check it over with your spark? If I was your spark I would want to check it out myself for the time it would take while quoting the rest of the job. I am assuming that the ceiling rose shown is fed from the main light supply and is not the bathroom light rose...

Have a look in the 'for reference' sticky post at the top of the forum. There are two examples showing wiring in diagram form on the first page alone.

As long as you stay within the permitted area's of the wall there is no depth restriction and you are best to bury the cable with a metal or plastic capping and plaster over. Wiring in the bathroom is slightly restricted now with part P and shower installation a high safety area which need's...

It was my understanding (correct me if I am wrong please) that ES lampholder fittings, which this is according to the instructions, were polarity important. According to my training the live should be at the centre terminal and neutral on the exposed screw part. Is this not that important?

With all the diagrams and instructions in the world you will still need to identify by testing which are the switched and supply wires!!! Do you own a multimeter?

As I have said you need to identify where the two cables come from to see if they are 'supply' or 'switch' cables and then proceed from there. If identified as such (and not a switched supply in and out) then the important wires are the blacks as the reds will join together and one of the...

You will probably find that the wires you have coming out of the wall are not just live neutral and earth. One may be the supply cable (red = live, black = neutral, bare = earth) and the other the cable from the switch wired with the red and black across the switch. You need to figure out...

And he is getting very p***ed off!!!

Wiring is covered in the reference section but just to clarify - Terminal 1 - The supply cable has the Red/Brown permanent live which should be placed in the terminal with the Red/Brown switch wire. Terminal 2 - The supply cable has a Black/Blue neutral which should be placed in the...

The RCD is needed not because it is a garage but because it is feeding appliances outside (Outside of the equipotential zone) like the lawnmower. The RCD should be placed on the ring in the kitchen at the start of the circuit with a 13A fuse in. At the garage end I would use a normal switched...

This is an accepted method to bring the supply and switch wire into the lantern for connection as this allows flexibility in the wiring eg. security lights which may need permanent live feed. It also allows the connections to be easily accesable which may not be possible dependant on the...