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Because as the felt expands and contracts it will pull itself out of shape. Whoever did that roof wasn't a roofer.

That roof is a complete pile of ****e, you don't run the flat up as a flashing. It should be 2 heavy underlay , with mineral details and promenades bonded in hot bitumen.

Bauder is the Rolls Royce, IKO is OK, others offer similair warranty.

Ripped a few EPDM roofs up over the years. The membranes fine, the adhesives are not. Half day training course and you're an approved installer. Felt fixer does 4 years as an improver before he goes on his own. There's roofers, and there's EPDM fixers...

Have them tested. Just because they look it doesn't mean they are.

More like 15k if you,re re using tiles. That's with a proper flat roof as well

You have promenade tiles bonded in hot bitumen. Easy to pop when cold. Could be asbestos based too. There is an adhesive called thixophalte that will hold them. Warm the area with a small blowlamp first though.

Its feasible.

Ubiflex is the wrong colour, Redland do rapid flash, but as with all substitutes wind lift will be a problem.

Code of practise requires 150 up stands from finished roof surface. Snow loadings need to be in calcs too.

We have done it, but costs and poor energy return form solar tiles are prohibitive.

Google Roof mate from Dow Corning.

Another 70 mm on top of your existing roof and felt over.

Correct.

Heat gun and wire scourer. Re oil lead when done.

Ply won't last long without constant decs. Use a soffit board in UPVC or supalux.

Good advice above, laughed at the throwing the glove off, manys the time :lol: As said, preferable to do individual strips, nail the head then put a ridge cap through.

Drilling the tile will lead to problems, especially the way clay moves. Tile should be removed and a lead slate made for the penetration.

So basically they're doing a 'private' a snaffling the gear, seems fine to me :mrgreen: As long as they don't work for me :lol: