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Make sure whoever is going to sleep in the room is a heavy sleeper, them things can make a racket...

Thats your durgo valve. Its your vent so the stack doesn't have to go all the way up to above your roof. It needs to be higher than your highest waste level like your basin. Chances are that is the height which it is currently at.

These do look good and and I was looking at getting one. They do have a bit more torque than your regular shed trash variants and they are more trade than DIY. What will you be using them for?

Gate valve is for low pressure so shouldnt be used. The full bore leaver should be fine. Make sure its WRAS approved.

Whoever gives you a quote on the phone. Don't use them Whoever quotes you a combi without even testing the supply. Don't use them. Whoever says they will need to upgrade the gas line to 22mm without doing any calculations before hand (even though in most case this is a reasonable assumption)...

Word of advice. When replacing rad valves leave the old olive and nut in place, most likely they will be fine. You will do more harm taking it off. As suggested a few wraps of PTFE round the olive and tighten. If you still have a problem, cut the pipe down further and use a soldered coupler...

Stop you damaging the ceramic but yeah its to form a seal however I never use it that way. A small bit of cured silicone for me.

All my kit is Makita and I have never come across this before with stiff batteries. Could be a problem with the batts expanding when getting warm, I'd get them changed.

The R2 cutters are a bit dearer. I do like using them they are very similar to the Turbo Golds. I have no problem with the quicksilver screws either. I end up buying the trade packs which are very good value.

Nice idea for a small area. Is that compression fittings I spot under the tails/chrome pipe? Any reason why you used that? I tend to shy away from any compression fittings under floors. You could easily have rubbed down the chrome and used a soldered elbow?

How about a picture with the bottom cover off then we can point you in the right direction.

As said should be fine, seen much worse attempts from so called plumbers! Nice to see you're using end feed fittings too... :D

You should be able to remove that key, there should be two holes. One for the cold inlet and one on the return. Open the cold water first then return. Once it is to the desired pressure shut of both valves one by one with the key.

Check to see if there is another valve. One at the cold water and one on the return. They both need to be open to fill. What model is it?

Will cost you up to £500 for a full power flush however if you don't want to pay that you can get decent results with a mains flush: http://www.diynot.com/wiki/plumbing:flushing_heating_systems I've done it with good results. ?If you fancy it you could also take the rads off and flush them...

Than man is a legend. I'm surprised he never actually whipped out his soldering Iron for this job! :lol:

With small areas like that I wouldn't bother with wet plaster. Use some filler instead and sand down.

I find this very interesting. I think you are a highly respected forum member here so curious as to why you have a view like this and unwilling to purchase online? The biggest problem I have with merchants is that its too god-damn expensive. I'm all for helping the local businesses out but...

I get one bracket up where I want it and work off that, you got everything you need from that one bracket then. Job done. Hanging a rad with tails should not take anything longer than 10 minutes!

Depth of seal regards to how this is connected to your drainage. If its straight into a stack a 75mm seal is required, if its a hopper you can get away with a 38mm seal. If its into your Gully you have a natural air break so you can get away with less than 75mm seal. Because for a sink...