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Any half decent plumber can do away with the need for flexy pipes to connect basins etc... Just requires a little pipe bending skill.

With any of the 3.6V little drivers, you will stand no chance against 'stubborn' screws, these only punch out a max of about 4/5nm of torque and you better off with a manual. For the smaller screws the IXO will be perfect. or any other 3.6v li-ion hand screwdriver as they are all much of a...

Not to mention its basically a glorified bottle trap which should never be used on a sink anyway...

few suggestions. - Drop the wire wool in favour of some abrasive pads. These do not contain steel. http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=KB2OYGQS4CINMCSTHZOCFFA?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=rothenberger+pads&searchbutton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0&searchbutton=submit Steel and copper is not a...

Mike Holmes: "Thats not to code. Minimum code states using 9" centres for drywall fixings they used 9.5"... Its all got to come down" He is overkill but get the job done. I watch it for humour value :lol:

I had exactly the same problem with one fitted took it apart numerous times. I used nuts on both side of the cisterns also used some LSX on the threaded bar. No leaks.

What really irritates me is how the plastic manufactures can give the massively long guarantees for these pipes when they haven't even been around for that long!

Will you be T'ing off the 22/28mm common F/R or 15mm F/R from another rad? If off the common you will be fine if off an existing rad adding 3 more rads off that last rad could be too much.

Since you have a natural air break with the hopper you have options for the traps you can use. an anti-vac trap could be used but as stated above you will get syphon action when the bath wast runs.

Is the waste pipe at the correct drop along its length? Your not using a bottle trap on a sink are you? Should only use P or S traps on sinks.

You can tell a lot about a man by his drill!

Yeah that will be fine, for more piece of mind though you can get SS or copper inserts but not necessary.

T in from the 15mm pipe, you want to give the poor Rad a little hope to warm up! :lol:

I always use McKeowns table. Perfect every time. Just memorise the sizes for the bends and thats all you will need. Any other types of bend come from experience.

Yes you can, but make sure you use an insert though and use a copper olive.

Should be fine, will just take a little longer to warm up. Make sure to use barrier pipe though and no fittings are left buried.

Basin - Basin mate 40mm and above waste then Silicon is OK but a bugger to get off. With plumbers mait you use a small amount and clean up after you and its as good if done right.

Any DIY monkey can put some pushfit together, yes its cheaper and quicker but any self respecting plumber would not choose this over copper if it can be avoided. At least you are using barrier pipe so doing something right! :wink:

Is there no adjustment on the linkage where the little metal clip connects the rod. There seems some extra length there so I can only assume that can be adjusted? How about a closer pic of the other side

I suppose you could get a few refills out of them so not a bad idea. I'd be just a tad bit wary about how the valves would hold up in the cylinders after a few refills.